WHEN in search of an ultimate getaway, I consider going at my own unhurried style, on my own budget, without breaking the bank. While this is true for all types of travelers, I also factor in the language and the people of the city I go to.
“Isn’t it daunting to wander around Russia?” I asked Pinky who egged me on to join her for a whirlwind weekend.
Concerned that English is hardly used in the country, I could only imagine the intimidating atmosphere there.
“Let’s take a daring adventure laden with uncertainty!” she said.
My wariness took a backseat. I was distracted by the tempting off-season air ticket rates and the idea of shelling out Russian rubles, similar to spending in pesos.
Cultural treasure
The morning air was bitterly cold outside Pulkovo Airport. Thankfully, we were warm enough in our winter outfits. We made sure the unforgiving climate didn’t overwhelm us.
St. Petersburg, the cultural capital of Russia and the “window to Europe”, is bursting with stunning scenery and tsardom history. Even if it’s the second largest state after Moscow, locals who speak fluent English are a rarity. Yet, there’s more to the allure of the Russian-European city than meets the eye, definitely a great reason to visit.
Unlike anywhere else we’ve been, this westernized region has its own slice of Amsterdam, Venice and Versailles. The scenic town, set among numerous islands linked by over 300 bridges, is strewn with cream-colored baroque and neo-classical architectural pearls. Near the borders of Finland and Estonia, its distinctive cityscape, monumental landmarks and coastal waters grace travel destination brochures.
Layered up under our winter jackets, we explored St. Petersburg by metro, the cheapest and most convenient means to get around in their transport network. In fact, their subway system holds the second deepest metro station record in the world.
Averting rivers, unfavorable areas and moist ground, Admiralteyskaya Station is 86 meters below the bustling urban scene. Navigating the unusual depth takes roughly four minutes by escalators over 125-meters long, which may cause some anxiety for those with claustrophobia. The foot traffic drains into the commercial hub of Nevsky Prospekt, the perfect setting to hang out, eat and relax.
We took in the stunning views on the bank of Neva River and watched the world go by. Along the waters is the enthralling State Hermitage Museum. Formerly known as the Winter Palace, it calls to mind the Louvre in Paris. Art enthusiasts should not miss the opportunity to marvel at its enormous collection of elegant paintings, fine sculptures and delicate artifacts. While numerous exhibits reside within its marvelous halls, the façade of this imperial structure is a feast for the eyes when illuminated at night. Buskers create a stir in the palace square where tourists love to converge.
Meandering through the Arch of the General Staff Building (opposite the Hermitage), we stumbled upon shops of brightly-colored matryoshka dolls. There is nothing quite like them, I can’t blame myself for buying a 10-piece set!
It was cold enough along Griboedov Canal as we headed for the well-crafted Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, built in honor of Emperor Alexander II. Tourists, enamored by the iconic onion domes, capture Instagram-worthy photos of its imposing façade and the elaborate mosaics within. And yes, the magnificent church is comparable to Moscow’s world-famous St. Basil’s Cathedral.
At the center of the action, the walkways, canals, bridges, waterside restaurants and bars reminded me of my trips to Venice, the Navigli in Milan and Amsterdam.
Idyllic setting
The next day, we escaped the vibrant city streets, 29 kilometers west, for a relaxed change of pace. In the outskirts of town, we spent a day lazing by the soul-stirring landscape of Peterhof (Dutch for Peter’s Court), a wonderland with extraordinary stories to tell. Restored to its former glory, having been heavily devastated in WWII, it’s reminiscent of the majestic palace and sprawling gardens of Versailles in France.
The Grand Palace is as welcoming as it is beautiful. As the royal retreat of Peter the Great in 1714, it dazzles with opulent amenities amidst fountains, statues, woodlands, canals and gardens. Widely known for the grandeur of its museum, this most- clicked parkland in Russia is a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Facing the Baltic Sea (Gulf of Finland), the dramatic scene was a picture-perfect vista “engineered” by Peter himself. The fountains, powered by underground springs (not motor pumps), come to a standstill in winter, so there’s hardly a tourist roaming the complex. However, if you need a moment to be immersed in nature, a quiet walk will leave you with a deep sense of peace.
The minibus ride from Peterhof to the town center took half an hour. Famished from a long and exhausting walk, we stopped at Tepemok, frequented by tourists for satisfying Russian food, and tucked into pelmeni, blini and plov (dumplings, crepes and rice pilaf).
“If it snows in Moscow tomorrow, it’ll be my first snowfall!” I shared.
“Let’s hope the weather leans in our favor,” Pinky replied.
Just as we went off into the night, white flakes fell from the sky, as the smell of crisp new beginnings hung in the air.