“Boda-boda, Madam China,” a driver of a bicycle-for-hire calls out. Kenyans have difficulty determining my nationality. They say I’m Chinese, Japanese or Korean. Filipinos are not on their top list when it comes to guessing Asian races.

I met the boda-boda driver in Kakamega in western Kenya, about a six- to nine-hour drive from the capital Nairobi.

The chosen route and road condition (number and size of potholes as well as bumps) determine how long the trip takes.

Boda-boda, whether a bicycle or motorbike, is a cheap way of going around town. The term is slang for “border to border” which started when bicycles transported passengers into no man’s land in Kenya and Uganda.

Kenya shares boundaries with Tanzania, Uganda, Sudan, Ethiopia and Somalia.

The main attraction in Kakamega is its forest national reserve. It is the only tropical rainforest in Kenya that survived human encroachment and is worth exploring.

Birdcalls fill the air while walking under the canopy of giant trees. About 350 species of birds have been spotted in the forest.

With my not-so perfect vision, I opted to look out for primates.

A piercing shriek or sudden rustling of leaves are signs for Olive Baboons. They call out to each other, as a warning, when they see their human cousins in the forest.

In our three-hour walk, my companions and I saw left-over guavas, the baboons’ favorite fruit next to bananas.

Other rare species of primates such as the Black and White Colobus, Blue Monkey and the Red-Tailed Monkey also make the Kakamega rainforest their home. We saw all three primate species and the baboons swinging from tree to tree as we cut across the forest following the river.

One of the longer routes to Kakamega can be broken by taking a detour to Baringo, a freshwater lake in the northern part of the Great Rift Valley. One can pitch a tent at Roberts Camp, which is along the shores of Lake Baringo.

Crocodiles will keep you company but they are not dangerous. They quickly go back to the water if you go too near. With a flashlight, these reptiles are easier seen at night as their eyes are like beacons. During the day, they easily blend in with the surroundings in the lakeshore.

Roberts Camp failed to mention the crocs when we asked about what we should watch out for. They did warn us about the hippos that like to come out of the lake at night to graze. These huge herbivores can become aggressive and attack humans. We were content to watch a family of about seven from the safety of a boat during a late-afternoon tour of the lake.

Load to drop

The most amazing part of the lake is the large number of bird species. At first, they just stayed up on the trees or in their nest. When we started feeding them peanuts, they came flocking around us and were not shy about fighting over morsels. There was a pecking order: first came the blue birds, then the grey and black ones, then the yellow birds. But the Hemprich’s hornbill (the only one I could identify) showed all the other birds who is boss.

The birds up on the trees lost their attractiveness when some of them took turns dropping their load on us, after partaking of the peanuts and bread we fed them.

With more than 400 recorded species, Lake Baringo is an ornithologist’s paradise. But you do not have to be a bird expert to enjoy the sights and sounds of our feathered friends. Still, the world record set for the highest number of species sighted in Baringo is 342 species in 24 hours.

Flamingo heaven

About an hour from Baringo is another lake. But this time, Bogoria is a soda lake. Its high alkalinity and high temperatures means no fish can survive there. But hundreds of thousands of flamingos congregate in Bogoria because, like other soda lakes, it is where their food is.

They feed on blue-green algae and shrimp which contain cartenoids, like those found in carrots and tomatoes, and give them their pink plumage. Flamingos can also stand the heat of the lake, which is fed by boiling hot springs and geysers. That is how flamingos got their name—their love for volcanic lakes and it is also Latin for flame.

A strong smell coming from the caustic soda mixed with bird dung and heat pervades the air near the lake.

But busloads of tourists come to Bogoria to watch the flamingos, marvel at spouting geysers and cautiously tramp on marshland to go near hot springs.

Although the lake is inside a national park, there is not much wildlife and those you see compete for grassland with cows and goats.

For wild animals that Africa is known for, such as lions, rhinoceros and giraffes, Lake Nakuru is the place, and that is Madam China’s next destination.

Two main things come to mind when I think of Salzburg, namely, Mozart and the movie, Sound of Music. It is a wonder that we have come to associate these two musical giants with such a small and quaint city.

The name Salzburg literally means “Salt Castle”, and originates from the barges that carried salt along the river of Salzach.

The beauty of Salzburg has definitely captured my attention because my first visit was not enough.

The harmonious blend of a large city within the cascade of rolling hills and historical landmarks can be inspiring and merely breathtaking.

Divided into the old part of town and the newer part by the river Salzach, getting around both parts can easily be done on foot, but if you wish to take the bus, I suggest getting a day pass or a week pass.

Accommodations are plentiful and varied. You can find some of these at their tourism website, www2.salzburg.info.

There are many beautiful sights to see here. For starters, visit the old town of Salzburg which was nominated as a World Heritage Site in 1996.

At the old town, you will see Salzburg Cathedral, Fortress Hohensalzburg, Franziskanerchurch, St.Peter cemetery, Nonnberg Abbey, “Residenz” Palace, Mozart’s Birthplace and Getreidegasse. You will also find the tourist office at the Residence Square, where more information can be easily attained.

At the other side of the river Salzach is the Mirabell Palace, where a few scenes of the Sound of Music were filmed. This is a beautiful castle with gardens, built by an archbishop for his beloved courtesan. Don’t miss the “Garden of Dwarves” and the Garden of Roses on the palace grounds.

A short walk from Mirabell Palace will take you to St. Sebastian Cemetery, which has the grave of Mozart’s wife Constanze Weber-Nissen.

Although not within the historic center, but a short bus ride away, is the Hellbrunn Castle. This was once an archbishop’s summer palace with lots of trick fountains and amazing gardens.

Prepare to get wet with the tricky water fountains all over the park.

The famous “house” which was also seen in the film Sound of Music is the Leopoldskron Palace, a national historic monument in Leopoldskron-Moos area.

A fun place to see interesting shops would be Getreidegasse, a long narrow street in the centre of town, famous for the old-style signs of profession outside each store.

I particularly enjoyed the year-round Christmas shops.

Mozartkugeln, or “Mozart balls”, are chocolate candies inspired by the famous composer, Mozart.

Coming back to Salzburg only confirmed my desire to see more of this beautiful city.

I can keep coming back to such a picturesque and serene place which is no wonder why many keep returning as well.

Lyon, known in English as Lyons, is the third largest city in France, next to Paris and Marseilles. This famous city has also known to be the French capital of gastronomy and plays an important role in French cinema.

Lyon’s beauty can also be attributed to the two rivers that surround it, the Rhône and Saône. This is accentuated by two large hills, one to the west and one to the north of the historic city center.
To the west is the hill of Fourvière, known as “the hill that prays,” and to the north is the hill of Croix-Rousse, “the hill that works,” because of the many silk workshops, a craft Lyon is known for.

Should you wish to fly in directly to Lyon, it is possible because Lyon has an airport 20 kilometers from the city center, called Saint-Exupéry International Airport, named in honor of Lyonnais aviation pioneer and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.

Arriving by train from many European cities is quite easy too. This is made possible by the TGV (train à grande vitesse, French for “high-speed train”) which connects to the north (Lille, Paris, Brussels) and the south (Marseille, Montpellier). Lyon has four train stations, Part-Dieu, Saint-Exupéry, Perrache and St. Paul, so do check which train station you arrive at and depart from.

Getting around the historic center is very manageable. I prefer walking around this quaint and pretty city, but if you are not much of a walker, public transport is readily available from buses, subways or the now popular public bicycles. Check out www.tcl.fr/site/00_plans_reseau/index.asp#metro for the public transport map.

There are many beautiful sights to visit in Lyon, namely, Place Bellecour, Tour Métallique de Fourvière, Sainte Marie de La Tourette monastery, Opéra National de Lyon, Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, Cathédrale Saint-Jean, Theatres Romains de Fourviere, (a Roman amphitheater) and Medieval Quarter of town, with cobbled streets.

The city is divided into nine districts or “arrondissements”, I suggest staying in the first or second districts. Checking out options on where to stay is easy, view websites such as www.lyon.fr or www.en.lyon-france.com. A visit to the tourist information office in Place Bellecour will be helpful, too, if you decide on a last minute trip to Lyon.

Being in a city known for their “Bouchons Lyonnais”, a great dining experience will never be a problem. I suggest visiting a famous street called Rue Mercière in the first district, for a long row of great “Bouchons” to select from. Most Bouchons are known for their sausages, duck pâté or roast pork.

An incredible shopping experience can be easily achieved just by strolling along Rue Victor Hugo and Rue de la République. Other shopping spots are Carré d’Or district, Passage de l’Argue, Rue Auguste Comte or the Part-Dieu retail centre.

Remember, Lyon is worth savoring, so take your time and enjoy what this city has to offer. More photos below:

Fifty years ago, doctors Jess and Patsy (Lugod) Lim exchanged marrital vows at the Lourdes Church in Quezon City. They retraced their steps a month ago for their golden anniversary.

This time around they had their proud and loving children—Jonnel, Cathy, Edwin, Steve, Joy and Alex in attendance with their respective families.

*****

The tradition lives on. It is a joint birthday party every year for cousins Third Tan and Tasha Anton, hosted by doting grandparents Francis and Tita Zosa.

Six-year-old Oscar III is the only son of lawyers Oscar Jr. and Melanie (Zosa) Tan.

Four-year-old Tasha is the only daughter of Mike and Triccia (Zosa) Anton.

Once again. the Cebu Country Club ballroom was all decked out with kiddie “thingies” and all the kids had a blast!

*****

In our family there were two birthdays in a matter of weeks.

Our two grandchildren Isabel and Julian turned seven, but the celebrations were so different.

Isabel decided to have a party at home that she personally planned. She chose the invitations, the give-aways, the pabitin goodies and the prizes for the games.

On the other hand, Julian couldn’t be bothered with party details and left Mom Candice to surprise him.

Surprise him she did with acrobats, a Bubble machine, a giant inflatable “Dinosaur Land”—the works!

Party venue was the Cebu Country Club ballroom while the inflatable “Dinosaur Land” was set up by the poolside.

The Golden Center of Cebu Inc. (GCCI is an organization for senior citizens) will conduct the “2nd Lecture Series on Gerontology and Geriatrics” at the Grand Convention Center on Mar. 29 from 7:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

The center, whose vision and mission is to provide a better life for older persons through services, training and education in Gerontology and Geriatrics, offers health and medical services, rehabilitation and recreation, livelihood programs, religious formation, among others.

The theme of this year’s lecture is “The Truth Behind Aging. Are You Ready?” It will tackle topics, like: Why Do We Age?…Nutrition for Older Persons…Death and Dying: Do You Welcome or Dread It?…Voice Care…Pressure Sores…Anxiety and Depression…Intimacy in Late Life, etc.

GCCI president Dr. Amparo Florida says that the registration fee is P500 inclusive of lunch, two snacks, and a seminar kit. Proceeds will go to the ongoing construction of the center on a 703 sq. m. lot donated by Mr. and Mrs. Go Ching Hai. For more info, please call the center at 231-0388 or email goldencenterofcebuinc@yahoo.com.ph.

*****

St. Martin de Porres Special School had its 27th Commencement Exercise at its premises in Labangon. The afternoon affair began with a liturgical celebration officiated by Father Pat Ornopia.
The graduation ceremony followed with Myrna Ballesteros giving the welcome address. Guest speaker was Ma. Fe Abejar.

We remember that two years ago, our late columnist Jo Gaboya Magsaysay was the school’s guest speaker, but she couldn’t make it due to a bad fall. However, she sent her message (read by Zeny Deen) which imparted: “Believe in yourself and above all, believe that God is always there to help you. He is always there when you need Him. He is still there even if you do not need Him. Use your mind, your eyes, your hands and your heart to tell you to live a life that is worthwhile. Listen and hear your heart. Then you will become a truly special person to yourself, to other people and to the good Lord!”

*****

It was a beautiful evening of music at Montebello Villa Hotel when visiting Filipino pianist from San Francisco, California, Peter Arce, took to the ivory keys at the lobby and dished out his brand of “cocktail” music: standard hits, old-time favorites, Broadway tunes and jazz. As his host Zelia Borromeo shares, Peter “magically weaves a seamless tapestry of melody, texture and rhythm!”

*****

In town a fortnight ago for a brief interaction with Singapore Airlines Priority Passengers in Cebu were GM Clinton Tan with marketing communications and services manager Rita Dy and her assistant, PPS coordinator Clarissa Morelos. Venue was the poolside area of the Marco Polo Plaza. Very much around too was SilkAir GM Kum Hoong Kong who we hear is soon leaving Cebu for a new post.

The next day the SIA/SilkAir team invited media friends to brunch, also at Marco Polo, to give updates on the airlines. A source of pride for SIA is its Airbus A30 with its much-talked-about A380 Suites.

“Beyond the luxury of First Class, the Singapore Airlines Suites is in a league of its own in terms of privacy, luxury and personal space. The bed is designed separately into each suite, and does not convert from the seat itself. Using separate sleeping and sitting surfaces, the intelligent design of the full flat bed offers customers the choice to rest in their preferred sleeping positions, and also allows them to sit and lounge in bed to read or catch movies on their personal 58cm (23-inch) LCD screen.”

Oh well, with these features, air travel has never been more comfortable!

*****

Stanley and Christina Villacin hosted dinner for their co-Springdale parents at their well-appointed home in Nivel Hills. It was a thanksgiving get-together for the group of concerned and dedicated parents who are actively involved in their children’s school.

She’s been doing community extension services since high school, not only in the nearby communities, but reaching even far-off places in the province.

Once, as a Girl Scout, she adopted a community in Abugon, Sibonga. She became part of the neighborhood for a year; she acted as a big sister and teacher to the kids in the barangay. She even built a playground for them. That’s how she loves volunteerism.

At 19, Rachelle Marie G. Dangin’s meekness of spirit has made her reign as a servant, and lead as a follower.

Just as the University of the Philippines celebrates its 100th year, she and her fellow servant leaders have set their brand of student leadership. UPians have been stereotyped, since the First Quarter Storm preceding Martial Law in this country, as radical firebrands, taking to the streets, leading rallies and braving the ire of water cannons or worse.

Rachelle differs. She would rather make a difference by volunteering.

Ruling without overruling, she has responded to the responsibilities and challenges life has brought her way in the campus and outside.

Last February 5-9 and February 22-25, she participated in the Ayala Young Leaders Congress (AYLC) and The Probe Foundation’s workshop on migration and communication, respectively. AYLC is an annual summit that gathers 75 of the most promising student-leaders from colleges and universities nationwide. The weeklong event is designed to hone the students’ skills in leadership.

Going beyond the four corners of the classroom is not strange for her. For the past three years, Rachelle has been a volunteer of UP-Tsinelas, a school organization with thrusts in children’s education and environmental preservation. Deeply committed to volunteerism, she considers UP-Tsinelas as a platform for her to continue reaching out to others.

Because she loves volunteering, she doesn’t regard it as work.

Recalling their outreach program with UP-Tsinelas in Sibonga last December, she says: “The feeling is overwhelming. It’s different when you’ve really reached out and shared with our less fortunate brothers and sisters. The outreach was one way of experiencing the real essence of Christmas”.

Though many see her as the perfect definition of “perfection,” she admits to many flaws. While volunteerism focuses her commitment, there’s bound to be sacrifices. In this case, her volunteerism encroaches on her relationship with her family. “Sadly, I always arrive home late and leave early. Conflict with my parents arises and still I can’t find time to settle it until it worsens.”

Friendship has also been tested. Keeping a too hectic schedule, she nearly did not realize that she was losing her best friend.

However, Rachelle takes these challenges as opportunities to learn.

“Swallow your pride and never cease praying. These, along with forgiveness, aided me in shaping the broken bits of friendship. The year started good as we reconciled at last. Aside from that, it’s also important to set priorities and to manage time in order to have balance, especially with matters affecting my family.”

While it’s her will that made her go through all the pains and her humility that makes her stand out as a new breed of student-leader, Rachelle believes all these emanate from one Source. “Blessed, that is me.”

Photos: Alex Badayos
Makeup: Bobbie Albert 0905-3426555

Surface Flaws

Ultimate weakness: Christian Bautista. She can’t help kissing the television set when the troubadour comes, singing or not, on screen
Telling absence: Certified NBSB (No Boyfriend Since Birth)
Corny Queen: “I really love to crack jokes… but jokes don’t seemingly like to be cracked by me. Whatever timing I follow, my jokes still sound corny.”

It was no wonder that I could not stop myself from joining the frenzy of photographers who were taking pictures of the beautiful canals and houses that dotted the city of Bruges.

Who would have ever thought that this treasure of a place, not too far from Brussels, the capital of Belgium, would be a stunning and romantic getaway.

The entire area has recently been declared by Unesco as a World Heritage City, so you can imagine what sort of beauty to expect when you arrive.

Getting there is not a problem at all. Upon arrival at any major airport in Europe, there are train and bus services to Bruges. One can check out the Belgian train service website at www.b-rail.be/main/index.html for more details.

Accommodations are plentiful, from the modest and affordable to the more upscale. A trip to the tourist office will be of great help in finding a place to stay.

Exploring Bruges is best done on foot, for the most part. A handy map is necessary because the streets and alleys may be confusing. If you are feeling a bit adventurous, rent a bike. One can also buy a multi-journey bus ticket if the bus suits you more.

But remember, Bruges is famous for its picturesque views of intricate canals and quaint architecture, so a boat tour is a must on your “things to do” list. In my opinion, the boat tour was the highlight of my trip and capturing it on a camera was essential.

Within this medieval port city, there are several monuments worth visiting, such as the Church of our Lady, with a spire of around 122 meters tall. Upon arriving in the big market square, one will immediately notice the huge belfry that houses a carillon of 47 bells.

Get to visit the Béguinage, a collection of small buildings. Don’t forget the Basilica of the Holy Blood, Concertgebouw (Concert Building), the old St. John’s hospital, Sint-Salvator Cathedral, Groeningemuseum, the Provinciaal Hof (Provincial Court) and the city’s famous gates, such as, the Kruispoort, Gentpoort, Smedenpoort and Ezelpoort.

Bruges is also home to a lot of contemporary art, so be prepared for amazing museums, art galleries, concert halls and performances. There are many cultural events that happen at different times of the year, so if you are an art lover, check out their cultural events calendar at their tourism website, www.brugge.be.

On matters of food and drink, I can mention three significant items: beer, chocolate and Flemish fries. All these can be easily found anywhere and sampling the different varieties is a treat in itself! By the way, Bruges is proud of its own official city chocolate, the Bruges swan (Brugsch Swaentje). Find out more at www.brugsechocoladegilde.be.

For shopping, I found out that lace is quite famous in Belgium, so a trip to these kinds of shops would be worth looking into. Check out www.kantcentrum.com for an idea of what their lace is all about.

Bruges is a beautiful display of canals, cobbled roads, ornate gables that blend into a postcard perfect scene. You will feel like you are in a fairy-tale as you walk its streets and lanes, cross canal bridges, or see the waters, filled with swimming swans. Enjoy the city of Bruges, and don’t ever forget to bring your camera!

A joint birthday party of cousins Chloe Evans and Ana Sofia Schlacter was held at the hilltop Garcia residence in Nivel.

Chloe who turned two came for a short visit from Pennsylvania with Mom Maki (Garcia) and Dad David Evans, while 1-year-old Ana is here to stay with her parents, Aya (Garcia) and Larry Schlacter, who have had enough of life in the Big Apple.

Proud grandparents Sonny and Armi Garcia were in seventh heaven doting on their two lovely granddaughters.

*****

1999 National Artist for Literature Edith Tiempo held court at the Marcelo B. Fernan Press Center for the 2008 Philippine Arts Month Celebration.

The multi-awarded writer was the special guest in the series of lectures and conferences dubbed Pagpupugay: Pambansang Alagad ng Sining sa Literato spearheaded by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts.

*****

Dinner at Golden Cowrie was one of the things Bobby and Mila (Garriga) Zuluaga of Tampa, Florida, looked forward to when they came for a visit after an absence of twenty or so years. Their stay was so brief that they were not able to see all their friends, but they saw enough of the city to marvel at its transformation.

Yes, they found time for Mila’s favorite grilled kitong at Golden Cowrie. Bobby and Mila were house guests of Cisco and Marilen Jarque.

*****

California nurses Ronnie and Malou (Espina) Seno came for a well-deserved break and to visit with family. It was a happy, happy time for dentists Leandro and Zosima Seno, the proud parents of Ronnie.

Yes, they couldn’t help tears of joy seeing their youngest son and his pretty wife after some years of absence. Of course, the Espina family was ecstatic, too!

*****

A birthday celebration was in order when Cebu Normal University (CNU) president Ester B. Velasquez turned a year more accomplished. The organizers called the afternoon affair at the CNU Convention Hall “Alay sa Pangulo.”

*****

And speaking of birthdays, 80-year-old Rebecca “Mama Becca” Aballe was feted by her loving family at the Laguna Garden Cafe on her natal day. The celebration was made more special with the presence of her granddaughters Misheil and Miah who both work abroad. Her birthday cake was a labor of love from her daughters, ChicChic Arreglo, Delia Gonzalez and Fidela Coyoca.

*****

A delegation from the China Agricultural University led by vice chairman of the university council Shicheng Qin, had its first cultural performance in Cebu at the Center for Performing Arts of the University of San Jose-Recoletos (USJ-R) main campus a fortnight ago.

It was actually a return visit because last April USJ-R perfomers headed by Dr. Mila Espina were in Beijing for a presentation upon the invitation of the China Agricultural University president. That was the start of the academic and cultural partnership between Cebu and China.

*****

Lyndon Angan is the man at the helm of the new travel show at RCTV Channel 36. Make My Trip debuted early last month.

*****

Enterprising businessman Dino Yapjoco is the franchisee of the very popular R.Lapid’s Chicharon of Manila at the GQ Plaza in Banilad (between UC and Petron) across Gaisano Country Mall. The outlet offers a choice of crunchie yummies—chicharon with laman, cocktail, bilog, bituka, bulaklak, etc.

It may have been the relaxing sound of flowing water from the Toujiang River, or the age-old edifices reminiscent of the Ming and Qing dynasties, or because of its people – friendly and simple – with its laid-back lifestyle, that convinced me that Feng Huang would be a place I would love to visit again and again.

How the city got its name

Legend has it that long, long time ago, two phoenix birds happened upon a place so glorious that they were deeply enticed by its beauty, never wanting to leave.

Now, the place is called Feng Huang, the Chinese word for phoenix, the mythical bird known to be a harbinger of good omens and possessing the power to rise from the ashes after being consumed by fire.

A county in China’s southern Hunan province, Feng Huang is said to be one of the most beautiful towns in China. It was first built on 1203 and was turned into a brick city by 1556. Decades after, in 1715, Feng Huang became a stone city.

Until now, the original structures, especially those from the Ming and Qing dynasties, have been preserved, even with modern streets enveloping the old town.

Upon arrival

Mountains dappled with winter fog met me and my friends when we arrived. It was an eight-hour train ride from Hunan’s capital Changsha to the town of Jishou, followed by a two-hour bus ride to Feng Huang. The foggy weather was not a good sign for travelers and villagers alike, for it meant that it could rain and snow anytime soon.

I was told that the perfect time to visit Feng Huang was during the summer, when one could enjoy the scenery sans the chilly weather. The entire Hunan province has no heating system to keep you warm, especially at night.

Even so, the beauty of Feng Huang is a constant all-year round, regardless of season. Wooden houses sit on stilts, restaurants and shops straddle along the banks of Tuojiang River while three bridges span across it.

Also in sight were women washing clothes with wooden paddles or ladles in hand, and travelers doing any, if not all, of these three things: taking pictures of the Toujiang river and its vicinity, dressing up like Miao villagers (for friends to take pictures), or taking a boat ride to see the entire river scenery in one sitting.

There were alleyways paved with large flagstones on Stone street. Nearby were meandering passageways to rows and rows of shops, restaurants and street vendors. Art enthusiasts will enjoy the art shops along these rows. In several coffee shops, one can hang out with friends or simply read a book.

My favorite dinner haunt is Yi Jiang Yue Bar, where I spent most of my time reading travelers’ notes and letters posted on its walls.

Dominated by a Miao minority, Miao culture is prevalent in this small town and it is not a surprise for one to see a person with baskets on his back, slung like a knapsack; or women dressed in raditional Miao costume – headdress glinting with lustrous silver, brightly-colored tunic and trousers, embroidered bodices mottled with color, all accented with silver jewelry.

Feng Huang by night

At night, Feng Huang city vibrates with color. The sight of Wanshou Palace, Rainbow Bridge, the old pagoda and the edifices near the riverbanks dressed in lights with hues of red, orange, blue and green, speaks of a city capable of transforming itself from a serene natural beauty by day to a vivacious charmer by night.

Another interesting thing to do by the riverbank at night, besides taking pictures and bargaining at shops, is offering a prayer. Candles are placed on a paper plate with flower design and are available along the riverbanks. You may light a candle and let it float on the river while you say your prayers. It is believed that doing so will make your dreams come true and answer your prayers.

Beyond the city

Beyond Feng Huang, an hour or so away, is the heart of the Miao villages. I learned that the Miao minority has retained their spoken language, but not their written system. A Miao gesture of hospitality includes offering rice wine to every visitor in the village.

Along the way to the Miao performing hall, old folk greeted me while they were preparing to make silver jewelry. Several steps further, some folk sold batik cloths at a very reasonable price. Miao houses, though old and shabby, reflect the inhabitants’ humble and unassuming lifestyle.

Another sight to see not far from the Miao villages is the Southern Great Wall. This wall is different from the Great Wall that lies in the northern part of China. It is 190-kilometers long with 848 perplexed blockhouses, a living testimony to the 400-year struggle and battles of the local townsmen.

Tianglongxia Canyon on the east of Feng Huang city, 24 kilometers away, is Feng Huang’s National Geopark. The canyon stretches 2.5 kilometers and is famous for its “dangerous and peculiar steep slopes”.

Though a hike from the entrance of the park to the Qiansi spring is a challenge to travelers, it is both satisfying and breathtaking to be able to witness the grandeur of nature right before your eyes.

One can see countless waterfalls, fantastic rock formations, ladder-like slopes, the Karst spring on a faulted cliff, and the Qiansi spring which sprays water in thousands of silver threads.

Saying goodbye

We left Feng Huang as the snow subsided. It was early morning, when the city was about to stir. I felt a sense of connection to it, maybe because in many ways the peoples’ attitude towards life touched me.

The whole place’s beauty somehow felt like it was begging me to explore it more, and the Tuojiang river, though cold in the winter weather, was like a friend encouraging me to flow on amidst life’s ever changing times.

As the sound of crisp snow beneath my every step told me that I was about to leave, I thought of the mythical phoenix birds in the legend of long ago. In a way, they became alive in me…because like them I was enchanted, never wanting to leave.

The vibrant art scene/community in Cebu is populated by individuals of various persuasions, trends, directions and inclinations in their chosen art.

I have recently noticed that a few artists I know have become extremely individualistic, preferring not to be part of anything whether a group or any artistic activity like exhibits.

Although some artists are now reclusive in their ways, they’re still part of a much larger group we’ll call here as the society of artists.

Art groups are important so artists can freely associate and work together for their common good.

Cebu City hosts five major groups of visual artists.

Proudly the oldest, not only here but also in the country, is the Cebu Art Association (CAA). The group also happens to be the largest in terms of membership.

CAA was founded a long time ago by the lepidopterist Prof. Julian Jumalon in 1937. CAA is a group of traditional and conservative artists.

The decade of the 90s saw the rise of two new groups. These are Kolor Sugbu and Cebu Artists Inc. (CAI).

Kolor Sugbu was organized in 1988 by a group of plein-aire artists who painted local genre. They undertook regular painting sorties in the countryside otherwise known as on- the-spot painting. In 1998 Kolor Sugbu established the Cebu Academy of Arts, a school of instruction for budding artists.

CAI, on the other hand, concentrates on organizing exhibitions. Like Kolor Sugbu, CAI maintains a small membership.

Another group that’s regularly in the exhibition scene is Binhi. It is composed of Christian artists. The next decade steered in the 21st century that saw the rise of young and new artists who asserted their brand of art. Contemporary directions have defined art and vice-versa.

A group that’s starting to create a stir is Tuslob-Buwa Ltd. The group espouses the creation of new traditions by using unconventional media and material.

They do concept or themed shows and collaborative artworks. Their main objective is to change the current status quo of Cebuano art and bring it to a new and exciting level.

These four groups keep the art scene dynamic and moving. These groups are the microcosm of the whole.

Even so, each group has created its own culture, which has resulted to a trademark sub-culture. No matter how divisive the groups can become, the division can’t really be seen and felt because Cebuano artists can easily get along. (Contributed photos)