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Thursday, December 23, 2010

THREE upcoming fashion designers have maintained their devotion to experimentation. But in a season that has so far opted for a cautious conservatism, they, too, clearly decided it was time to stick with tradition. It, however, should be named “Idiosyncratic Dandyism,” and the intriguing name was reflected on each other’s pieces.

The collection by the triumvirate—Clizer Mayol, Mikhail Achas, and Jenine Codilla—was built around menswear classics (i.e. the suit, jacket, trenchcoat), but the craft of the clothes was emphasized with a subtle artisanal flourish in the form of a contrast cross-stitching on jacket and trouser seams (cream stitches on a black suit, for example, or black stitches on a pair of cream trousers).

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The same stitching also ran all round the hem of a duffel coat and appeared as a broken pinstripe on a gray wool jacket. It gave each garment the effect of being slightly unfinished yet also worn-in; very much in keeping with the erstwhile essence of Miyake’s own designs. The shoes also had a lived-in quality.

The dandy theme was evident in the outerwear: a long wool coat with a tuxedo lapel, the wool cape and cream blanket cloak that closed the show, even a hooded puffer jacket lined in fake fur dyed a deep burnt orange.

The abiding impression left by this collection? Intelligently designed clothes for normal-size men rather than reedy fashion models.

Best known as the most distinctive, Mayol has been slowly building up his own line over the last two years. His collection was conclusive proof that he has an eye—and a wit—all his own.

Like many designers of his generation, he likes to work a bit of retro irony into his collection, but he kept it from being cloying by adding just a touch of tough street edge.

He took spring’s ubiquitous sherbet colors and pushed them just a few hues deeper, resulting in unusual, interesting combinations: mauve and yellow, chartreuse and raspberry, lime and nude tones.

A Fair Isle sweater got reworked as a ballet-neck tank top, paired with a skinny skirt; a full-skirted, floral-print dress was saved from becoming saccharine by the addition of a goofy, oversize bow and a very genteel black leather dog collar at the throat.

Achas’s basics—pencil skirts, loose jackets and slim trousers—played smart second fiddle to lovely crocheted tops and snappy striped cardigans.

Although milliner-turned-designer Codilla moved his show to high fashion this season, she remained true to her romantic, vintage-y aesthetic. Inspired by her trips, the designer showed her recent club wear collection, just in time for the holidays—or daze?

A series of vests and jackets with folkloric embroidery displayed the handiwork for which Coviello is known, while the accessories—pointy lace-up and boots—completed the casual, woodsy mood she was dying to work on.