RECENTLY, I embarked on a trip (together with Sonny Dizon and nine others) from splendor Davao City to mysterious Agusan Marsh and then to historic Cateel, Davao Oriental (via the newly-opened Compostela route over the gorgeous Mount Diwata).

On our return trip, we followed the scenic highway from quaint Baganga to stately Mati and then back to Davao City. This is my report: Mysterious and perilous Agusan Marsh. Almost two hours after traversing the chocolate-colored Cebulao River from the town of Bunawan, we finally arrived at Lake Mihaba, a crocodile sanctuary inside the ecologically significant wetland ecosystem in the country today.

For updates from around the country, follow Sun.Star on Twitter

Rey O. Calderon, president of the people's organization that monitors the lake, said the saltwater crocodile that attacked and killed 12-year-old Rowena Romano still lurks in the marshy waters. Saltwater crocodiles are considered the largest living among crocodilians and reptiles on Earth. Its average size is 17 feet.

Attacks are rare. But the marsh has been swollen for the past several months, causing fish to scatter to others parts. With little to feed on, the crocodiles have become aggressive, said Ruel Hipulan, head of the Save Mindanao Volunteers Inc.

Lake Mihaba is just one of the 56 lakes found in Agusan Marsh, which was declared as a protected area by the former president Fidel V. Ramos. The marshland, which is said to be similar to the Everglades of Florida, acts like a sponge, as it is nestled in the midwaters of the Agusan River drainage basin.

Mystical and luxuriant Mount Diwata. In Philippine mythology, a diwata is a mythological figure similar to fairies or nymphs. They are said to reside in large trees, such as acacia and balete and are the guardian spirits of nature, bringing blessing or curses upon those who bring benefits or harm to the forests and mountains.

On our way to Cateel, Davao Oriental, we followed the Mount Diwata trail. Only few patches of the road are cemented; the rest are still muddy if not dusty. But it was worth it as the trip provides you a glimpse of the infamous gold rush area 600 miles south of Manila.

Beneath its rocky soil and canopy of forest, Mount Diwata is believed to have the richest gold deposit in the Philippines, itself considered a world-class treasure trove of mineral wealth.

The lure of gold has attracted tens of thousands small-scale miners to Diwalwal (as it is commonly known) thereby transforming a once uninhabited wilderness to a rubble-strewn settlement where processing waste has killed the local river. "Those who are afraid to die should not come to Mount Diwata," village captain Franco Tito once told Reuters' Carmel Crimmins.

While the upper portion of the mountain is still classified as virgin forest, deforestation in some parts continues.

Unparalleled and enthralling Aliwagwag Falls. Known among the natives as the natural opus of the Mandaya gods (the father and son Mansilatan and Badla), Aliwagwag Falls is one of the tallest and most unique waterfalls in the Philippines. It is way off the tourist map and is known mostly to locals and intrepid adventurers; it is not even listed in international guidebooks.

Before reaching Cateel, we made a stopover at this majestic waterfall. And when I saw it, I was dumbfounded, speechless, and awed by the spectacular sight. It is beyond comprehension: a series of 84 falls appearing like "stairway to heaven" with various heights among the steps. One step is measured 72 feet and another is 67 feet. Overall, the falls is 1,110 feet of cascading energy and 20 meters in width -- all these in the midst of virgin forest.

According to some locals, there are parts in the forest just near the Aliwagwag Falls where you can find the burial grounds of the Mandaya and could be reached by hiking.

Historic and picturesque Cateel. The oldest town of the province of Davao Oriental, Cateel is located on the eastern coast of Mindanao and is bounded by the Pacific Ocean. The municipality is traversed by the two rivers: Caraga River in the south and Manurigao River in the north.

How quaint is the town? Writing in his blog, native Danny Castillones Sillada informed: "The town is like a forgotten paradise bereft of any infrastructure, regressive as it was since the Spaniards, the Japanese, and the Americans came: no electricity, no television, and no telephone."

What we missed visiting was the Pusan Point, the easternmost vantage point of the Philippine archipelago where you can witness and celebrate the nature come to life. This 4-hectare coconut plantation is blessed with a 750 meter beach blanketed with white sand beach facing the Pacific Ocean.

Digging sperm whale. As we approached Cateel, Darrell Dean Blatchley received a text from someone informing him of a sperm whale buried somewhere in Barangay San Antonio. The American owner of the Davao-based Blatchley Antler Design was excited when he learned that the group was going to the said barangay.

So while Patrick Taclob, Misael Abad, and Marco Dizon were surfing the big waves of the Long Beach in San Antonio, Blatchley was also digging the skeletons of sperm whale, which was buried some two years ago.

A sperm whale has a large head that can be up to one-third of the animal's length. The species feeds on squid and fish, diving as deep as 3 kilometers (9,800 feet) in order to obtain its prey, making it the deepest diving mammal in the world. It is considered the largest living predator.

Over most of the period from the early 18th century until the late 20th century, the sperm whale was subjected to significant hunting pressure in order to obtain the spermaceti and other products, such as sperm oil and ambergris. Spermaceti found many important uses, such as candles, soap, cosmetics and machine oil. The sperm whale can live for more than 70 years.

Surfing at Mati. On our third night, we slept at Mati, Davao Oriental.

The following day, we met Michael N. Rabat, the brother of the town's mayor. "Davao Oriental is the only province with no city," said Mikko (as he wants to be called), who owns the Villa Merced Hotel and president of the hotel and beach resort organization.

Mikko was our tour guide that day. First, he brought us to the provincial Capitol and then showed us some parts of the town before proceeding to the unused airport (which was built by then president Ferdinand E. Marcos). He also took us to their farm, where you can see sheep raised under the coconut trees, pomelo and cashew orchards, and cattle and horses.

Our final destination was barangay Dahican, whose 7-kilometer white sand beach is facing the Pacific Ocean. About 15 minutes away from the town proper, anyone can come to the beach. Its white sand may not be as fine as Boracay's but walking on it barefoot would still be a pleasure.

The waves are big enough for surfing; in fact, it is a well-known skimboarding and surfing spot in the country.