Thursday, October 23, 2008 Paris de Negros By Ver F. Pacete
AT THE turn of the century, Silay was known as the Paris of Negros. For the Negrenses, Silay was the "cultural and intellectual hub" of the province. The longest seaport in Asia was there at Mambulac (1.70 kilometers).
Ten percent of the Silaynons belonged to the principalia. Under Spanish laws, the principalia obtained titles making communal lands their private property.
In the poblacion of Silay, those who belonged to the principalia built their homes near the plaza - and near the two seats of power, the municipio and the iglesia. Those who belonged to this kind could be addressed by the title Don. (And they were allowed to vote).
Those who were not from the poblacion were the "taga-bukid (from the mountains). The upriver natives were "taga-ilaya" and the downriver folks were the "taga-dalom".
The dons and doñas of Silay constructed their mansions inside the fence (later wall) to possibly prevent the intrusion of Moro pirates who frequently raided the shorelines of Negros. Those who were not allowed to get inside the gates were known as "de afuera."
Imported consumer goods passing the seaport flooded the mercado of Silay. Available items were chandeliers from Europe, crochery from China, olive oil/chickpeas/codfish from Spain, tea from China, champagne from France, gin in barrels, cognac in casks, cotton cloth from Madras, straw hats with silk flowers, pomade in jars, medicines from America, hair for wigs, diaries from Morocco, etc.
From the Chinese mestizos and urbanized indios emerged native hacenderos. They considered themselves sugar barons living in magnificent mansions with an entourage of kusinera, lavandera, jardenera, mayordoma, muchacha y cochero following them. They spoke Spanish, enjoyed Italian opera at Kahirup Theater, and hosted banquets for foreign guests.
In every mansion, there was a piano. The children were sent to Manila or Europe to study music, medicine, or law. When they returned to Silay, they called themselves ilustrados, the enlightened ones. The doñas even overshadowed the friars with their glittering heirlooms. The envious friars secretly called them "bestias cargadas de oro."
It was rumored that the rich had camarin (granary) in their compound to keep their silver coins. There was a doña who was even assisted by the maids in taking a bath. She would lie back on a chaise longue and the maids would shampoo and comb her long hair, soap, rinse, dry, and powder her body.
At the end of the milling season, the hacendero and his wife would travel around the world. They would buy so many things and chartered a ship in coming back to Puerto de Silay.
The Buena familias had reserved pews for Sunday mass at the left side facing the altar of San Diego Church. If the mass would start at 6AM, the servants would be there by 5:30AM to watch over the seats until their "amos" (masters) arrived.
In some mansions, the members of the family would count the bills after selling their sugar and the counting would take days. Sometimes, friends who dropped by were invited to help in the counting.
Another hacendero would hire an orchestra in his residence so that musicians could play for a week. His neighbors and other Silaynons were also invited to come and listen.
Workers in the farms had also their own way of enjoying life. They would love to serenade the beautiful "inday" in the village. They were singing love songs taught by their grandfathers. The young men in the farm were proud to own a guitar.
The young ladies were also proud to show off what they know in preparing native dishes - laswa, tinola, paksyo or adobo. The mothers would always maintain a vegetable and a flower garden, especially if she had girls in the house. Several bahay kubos where the families lived were also distributed in an area at the center of the hacienda.
A typical bahay kubo was made of nipa and bamboo. The house was divided into five parts: a small area outside the door known as the "balkon" where family members could rest; the wider area inside was used by the family for eating, for sleeping, and served as sala when visitors arrived. The "cuartos" (bedrooms) were always assigned to the "dalagas" (unmarried daughters) in the family.
The men in the village would always gather in the house of a "mananggite" (tuba gatherer) after a day's work to savor their favorite "tuba" to match "linagpang pantat" (grilled catfish soaked in hot water with salt and hot pepper).
For the children of the canefield, the best thing they could dream was to be the best "tapasero" (cane slasher), the best plowman, the best fisherman, the best wrestler during fiestas, and the best father who could produce 12 children after 12 years of marriage.
Ah, that was life in the Paris of Negros. Those were the years when dapdaps where blooming red at the riverbanks; when silver coins were measured by the gantas; when food was not a problem; when dreams were colorful; when we were not born yet.
