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Saturday, June 25, 2005
Fine at Portorufino
By Isabel Maria Gonzales
Chef Manuel Espina of the Portofino Resort is an old hand in the French cooking he’s best at. He started 1966 at that old Cebu icon the Magellan Hotel and Club Filipino, moved to the Sheraton in Manila then on to Dubai.
And now he’s back in Cebu at the Lapulapu resort which Manuel A. Zamora of the famous hotelier family, is now carving slowly from the ruins of Mar y Cielo.
The latest addition at Portofino is its Weekend buffet full of French-based dishes, starting with the chicken and mushroom soup.Then there’s a choice of Portofino Beef Loaf , ground beef with a lot of chopped onions, parsley, herbs mixed with egg and bread crumbs cooked in a loaf pan lined with bacon and served with brown meat sauce; fish fillet smothered in a mixture of flour, egg and breadcumbs fried in butter and garnished with parsley and lemon or the pork fricassee, a pork stew cooked with cream. The chef has also something stewing up his sleeve, or rather his pots and pans. He gave a preview of it to a privileged few. Steaks especially ordered from a GenSan ranch raising Australian stock. It was a rib-eye steak topped with a rare and secret Café Paris sauce. So, watch out for the Portofino steaks culled by the combined genius of Manny Zamora and Chef Espina.
(June 25, 2005 issue)
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