Thursday, July 05, 2007 Magsaysay: Absolutely euphoric By Jo Magsaysay Whatever
INADVERTENTLY omitted in the download…or was it an overload…for a previous column were a couple of lines about my favorite tastes. They still are and will remain among a few of my favorites:
……….Cafe Georg’s fish, steamed with butter and dill; fish wrapped in papilloti garnished with herbs and spices ………..Krua Thai’s crab rice, with a chockfull of crab meat and prawn soup so hot and spicy, my eyes, nose and throat sting ………..Cafe Adriatico’s pancit palabok and Grand Manier soufflé, chocolate soufflé is good too!
*****
Having been royally wined and dined at the Swedish smorgasbord at Waterfront Hotel and at The Gustavian, I am still in a euphoric state of feasting. I raise a toast to the Swedish: Skoal!
*****
Herring, the small silvery food fish that the Swedish consecrate as the food of life, was the main feature at the Waterfront Swedishes. Herring, salted, kippered, steamed, boiled, marinated in vinegar, drenched in oil, soaked in curry, and coated with chili paste. Herring baked in a pie, herring dipped in mustard, and chilled in ice…How many ways are there to serve herring?
When the imagination runs out, quipped chef Anders Hallden who, is of course, Swedish. And how is herring with all these fine bones deboned? With the insouciant manner of authority, chef Anders calmly instructed: take hold of the tail tightly and zip it up the spine. Voila! So simple, I’ll do that next time with bangus.
*****
From the dessert station—presided over by broad smiles by chef Gabriel Garci—the Viking ship, sculptured sugar figurines of horses and horsemen.
Chef Anders took a silver platter. Triumphantly holding it aloft as if it carried the crown jewels, chef Anders fingered and distributed white chocolate pellets to the guests. Among them Swedish Consul Cheling and Mrs. Susan Sala, Margot Osmeña, Marissa Fernan, Marco and Kate Anzani, the genial GM Marco Protacio, Bunny Ludo and Elvira Luym, whose darling daughter Kaye, a veritable credit to Waterfront, as PR passed on the additional info that, aside from the pophular Swedish meatballs, a variety of pate in the smorgasbord was the "infamous" Smalandsk Ostkaka, a cheesecake served hot with forest berry jam; and chef Anders’ own favorite, the Sjomansbiff or Sailor’s beef, finely cut tenderloin fried with onions and potatoes, put into layers and baked with beer stock. The guests, told by chef Anders to pop the white chocolate pellets quickly in the mouth, were delightfully surprised to taste the warm, sweet ooze of Absolut vodka. Absolutely perfect. Absolutely peachy!
*****
The king of Sweden, Gustaf, was given due honors by a native-born Swede, chef Robert Lilja who named his resto-cum-deli The Gustavian. Although there are actually six Swedish kings named Gustaf or Gustavus, chef Robert’s Gustavian is definitely Swedish in ambience – the simplicity, almost austere on the plain board walls, the wooden planks for the wine racks and spice shelves, the clean, uncluttered lines of the furniture. The food, however, was royal, fit for kings.
The clam chowder, unlike the clear vegetable and shellfish stew of the French bouillabaisse or the milky New England (Maine) chowder, is Gustavian or so chef Robert proudly claims about his thick creamy chowder. The baked artichokes (a miniature version of our puso sa saging) with a racklette cheese dip was like no other version or so chef Robert claims the ladies in Sweden loved him for the dip which is really seductive. A creamy, buttery sauce with lemon gave a deep-fried fjord sole a delightful piquancy.
An old friend Dietmar Dietrich has now joined forces with chef Lilja and together they came up with a super Angus steak, so tender and juicy it simply melted in the mouth. The dessert platter of creme brulee, panacotta, chocolate soufflé with raspberry sorbet was utterly sinful!
*****
Good food, good friends, good times spelled one magical night of nostalgia for the good old days at Plantation Bay. On one of his flying trips from Canada, Manny Gonzales— taking note that his dear mother Titang Cuenco Gonzales was feeling sad and lonely without her beloved Tony, who opted to laze in bed in Manila—got together some old, dear friends of Titang for dinner.
Preparing the menu, supervising the cooking, making the arrangements and the music for the night (oldies for goldies), Manny came up with perfection: a table in the patio overlooking a swimming pool in the Piazza Palermo, the latest addition to the luxury resort; crisp vegetable sticks with a cheesy dip, a savory soup, pasta with a delicate white sauce, a flavorful medallion of beef and pralines. Let’s not go into ecstasies. Manny is not one for verbiage but one wondrous fact matters.
We (meaning Millie Sembrano, Marisol Putong, Milagring Borromeo, Chiqui Ferraren, Jaime and Cecilia Picornell with their gregarious son Jimmy) had a marvelous time; Titang, God bless her— most of all.
