Saturday, July 26, 2008 The old meets the new By Jigs Arquiza
IN olden times, a clay pot called a kulon, or k’un for short, was used in cooking. At the Paseo complex in Mabolo, a relatively new restaurant named after this old-world native cooking utensil serves some pretty good versions of native dishes as well as some new takes on old favorites.
At Coon Grill (a spin-off from k’un), diners have a choice of dining areas.
They can either stay at the air-conditioned wing or at the lanai-style dining area where smoking is allowed. The outdoor area is also where the videoke singing is held, and on certain days, acoustic performers entertain customers with their renditions of popular songs. Whatever section you may want to hang out in, Coon Grill is one of the few restaurants in the “less noisy” section of Paseo, off to the left of the main complex. Being away from the deafening crowd means more time to spend on eating, and more time to appreciate the dishes being served.
The basic Cebuano fare of sutukil (sugba, tinowa and kilaw) is available but Coon Grill prides itself on also serving goat and quail, something that’s not usually on the menu in most restaurants. Their quail is done only one way, roasted and served with kropek, or shrimp crackers, on the side. If you enjoy eating lechon manok, then you should definitely give this one a shot.
It’s a bit stringy, being “organic” in nature, meaning it has either been caught in the wild or strictly fed only grain, but its flavor will surely bring a smile to your face.
A “new” dish available at the grill is the crispy kanding. Simply put, it’s actually lechon kawali cooked using goat’s meat instead of pork belly. It’s pretty good, there’s no gamy aroma at all, and the meat is pretty tender and flavorful. The taste is a bit hard to describe, it does not taste like either beef or pork, but has its own distinct effect on one’s tastes buds.
An old native favorite for countless years, the stewed goat’s meat, or calderetang kanding, at Coon Grill is a bit surprising. It has a slightly different taste from the caldereta most people are probably used to, but it still tastes great. I was not able to talk to Coon Grill’s cook, but I suspect that they added some pineapple juice to enhance the flavor of the stew. This dish
would be reason enough for me to go back to Coon Grill. This and their chili garlic shrimp.
The chili garlic shrimp is just that, shrimp sautéed in chili and garlic. It’s served hot, it’s very spicy, and very satisfying. Pair it with a few bottles of beer; hang out in Coon Grill’s videoke area and you’ve got a great night ahead of you.
Whether you’re looking for great food or a great time, Coon Grill provides both. One always comes with the other, leaving you pretty much satisfied, and counting the days when you’ll be back.
