Saturday, December 06, 2008 A New Look By Jenara Regis Newman
SPORTING a new look is Lemon Grass, the Vietnamese-Thai restaurant, at its new location in Ayala Mall’s The Terraces. Only two and a half years old, chef Raki Urbina say’s that the restaurant is now 20% bigger than its old location, is better lighted and has, to add to its total look, a view of The Terraces.
Chef Raki says that he has, of course, been influenced greatly by his mother, Lita Urbina of Café Laguna, in his career choice. He grew up with the aroma of Café Laguna cooking, as well as the family meals which his mother took the time to prepare. That he is into Vietnamese-Thai cooking is a matter of diversifying the family culinary expertise, which has always been into not just Filipino cuisine but also Asian, like Korean and Japanese, available in the family catering service.
He describes Thai food as adventurous, very strong in flavor, pepper-hot and spicy with the flavors of lime, kaffir leaves galangal and lemon grass whereas Vietnamese food is mild, very similar to Filipino except that it uses a lot of basil and mint.
For the restaurant, he has kept the same menu and the same signature healthful drink in a pitcher (his own concoction that is neither Thai or Vietnamese). But by next week, he will have more items in the menu including:
Tom Kha Kai, a Thai sour soup similar to Tom Yong but with chicken, herbs and coconut milk.
Pla Koa Thod Nam Pla, which is fried pugapo fillet with fish sauce, herb glaze and topped with cilantro. Mildly flavored and truly delicious.
Chao Tom which is Vietnamese shrimp quenelles on a sugar cane “stick”, best eaten by removing the shrimp and placing it on a bed of lettuce and veggies, rolling them for a spring roll-like concoction. And yes, one can chew on the sugar cane, if one wishes.
Naue Phad Krappow, which is stir-fried beef with mint. A bit salty but Chef Raki explains the saltiness is because Thais eat it without rice but with a lot of vegetables. It’s a dish very easy to prepare, too.
Tako Haew, a rich dessert of Thai sticky rice and tapioca pudding with water chestnuts to give the smooth texture a surprising crisp bite..
If, after a meal one orders a fruit platter, it is served with a “dip”, a mixture of salt, sugar and minced pepper. According to Chef Raki, this is how Thais eat their fruit.
By next week, Lemon Grass may start serving merienda of small French baguettes with meat mixtures and other fillings in them. And who knows? They might start serving Vietnamese coffee, too!
