Thursday, April 19, 2007 The way to the mountain By Dorothy Bangayan The Unlonely Planet
LAST week's long holiday left me stuck in the city of Manila. Other than a few open restaurants, the rest of the streets remained empty with screams of silence roaring in every corner.
I make it a point not to travel on long holidays where everything is overbooked, overpriced and overcrowded. (The reason why I was not able to go home to Davao.) So it is ironic that last Saturday, I find myself following a route in the Viaje Del Sol, to the south of Luzon, in Dolores Quezon, where Mt. Banahaw stands shrouded in mystic and mystery.
Viaje Del Sol, the way of the sun from San Pablo to Quezon, is a map that "runs through charming country inns, off the beaten path cafes and inspiring artists studios."
This map, a collaboration by a group of friends who grew up in the area, is promoting Southern Luzon in a new light. I would describe it as a guidebook for travelers, not tourists, for those seeking a road trip without expectations except to bask in gourmet cuisine, emotive architecture and cultural fascinations.
We chose to stay in Cafe Kinabuhayan, a bed and breakfast place run by Winston and Jay at the foot of Mt Banahaw. Also a stopover point for mountaineers before a climb, We entered past tall antique doors into a little world created by Jay, the owner, chef and host.
The cafe is Arcadian yet artsy spouting an eclectic fusion of figurines and antiques stashed all around tree houses and bamboo cabanas.
We were served lunch, a trio of pasta. Wrinkled yellow fettucini topped with "laing" carbonara sauce, white spaghetti with fresh tomato and herb sauce, long strips of carrots masquerading as noodles topped with diced tomatoes and nuts, which I found a little salty for my taste.
I was disappointed with the pasta since I remembered making an advance request for meat. The reviews I heard of the cafe's risotto, chicken and steak left my imagination hankering for a heavy hearty meal of beef and bones.
Winston explained that the chef cooks depending on his mood for the day. Menus change everyday and sometimes the recipe.
Desert was saving grace. The dark violet of the Ube Halaya, a scoop of creamy white macapuno ice cream tinged with swirls of ube, and the cheery bit of melon arranged artfully in a plate was flooded in a halo of blue liqueur.
The taste was simply divine. We washed the food down with the cold water taken from the springs of Mt. Banahaw. The water is good for you. In scientific terms, it is high in mineral content and if you wish to believe, like many others who trek to the mountains to collect it, has healing properties.
We were given a tour of Kubli Springs, also a private property of Jay, a short dusty drive away from Cafe Kinabuhayan, where we lingered for awhile, tempering the heat of the sun with cool water running through our legs.
We failed to trek to Mt. Banahaw due to the enormous number of people on their yearly pilgrimage to the mountain.
Mt. Banahaw, actually a dormant volcano is considered to be sacred by the locals. Already, around 170 religions, including those who worship Jose Rizal, have considered the mountain as their Mecca.
And, curiously, one asks that why, among all the other mountains, it is this one that Filipinos go to during Holy Week. The answer of the locals is "because there really is something magnetic in Banahaw."
In terms of geography, the mountain is where the key latitudes and longitudes cross creating an energy field making it a favorite place for faith healers, cults, hermits, religious cults and mediums.
They say that there are three kinds of people who climb Mt. Banahaw. First, there are the religious cults who treat it as their Mecca or Holy Mountain. Then there are the mystics who seek psychic experiences and materials for amulets or anting-anting.
Others who prefer aliens rather than the paranormal believe that the volcano crater is the landing pad of UFOS. The last are mountaineers who take adventurous treks.
Believe whatever you want, or take everything in stride, what is important is to enjoy the ride and for one day to live in their way of life. (email the author at wandergirl28@yahoo.com.ph)
