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Monday, March 21, 2005
T'boli, hear me come
By Prima Guipo Hower
THIS is the first of the three-part series I had been working on about being "wowed" by the Philippines over and over again.
Wowed, not only by the opulent resorts that now littered the Philippine beaches, the malls bulging with consumer goods, and the posh hotels, but by the simple things that can be enjoyed this summer, just around the "neighborhood", without having to break the bank.
On January 6, 2005, I was one of the 300 or so passengers on board Philippine Airlines from San Francisco en route to General Santos City via Manila and Honolulu, Hawaii.
As a matter of habit, I checked out the airline magazine as soon as I clicked my seat belt in place.
Before the Jumbo Jet 747 started its taxi down the runway, I knew I would have at least two hours of reading enjoyment leafing through Philippine Airlines Mabuhay Magazine.
And I was certain too, that I'd be taking home a copy of the magazine to share with friends and family.(The stewardess gave me three copies).
There on page 48 of PAL's Travel Lifestyle January 2005 issue was a face of a T'boli woman in full regalia staring back at me.Absent a smile, I cannot help but admire the face with its strong chin, aquiline nose and beautiful piercing brown eyes.
A set of earrings made of the finest chain of brass, beads and braided horsehair-all handmade, dangled from both ears.I have seen the process of making these intricate baubles. Her traditional red and wide-rim hat complimented the blue dark navy blue blouse embroidered with multi-color thread.
"Past Perfect" the article read.It continues, "On the shores of Lake Sebu, in Mindanao, Philippines, the indigenous T'boli, despite the pressures of modern technology, have continued their age-old practices of weaving their marvelous fabrics, fishing for tilapia and remaining faithful to the laws of nature".
The following pages depicted their way of life, the scenic Lake Sebu, the waterfalls...
On those pages, I was seeing a chapter of my life too.Thirty-five years ago.When I was "wowed" by the T'bolis of Surallah for the first time.
To set the tone to this three-part series "Wowed By The Philippines", I'd like to share something I wrote about the T'boli land that I saw in November 1969.
A 25-year old Peace Corps Volunteer named Alvin J. Hower, invited my late brother Felipe and me to visit the Wycliffe Bible Translators living in Kamato, Surallah not far from Elizalde's Panamin.
Of that visit, Al wrote to his family and friends in the US on December 1969. "You may be interested in hearing about some of my little travel excursions around South Cotabato.Several times I have had the opportunity of visiting four American ladies (Wycliffe Bible Translators) that are translating the bible into T'boli.On one of these visits, two students from Notre Dame of Dadiangas College were my companions, Prima and Felipe Guipo.
Our trip to the Wycliffe house and Barrio T'boli took us on a bus ride until there was no more bus service.Then we rode a jeepney to the end of the line.From there we hiked about two miles uphill to the nipa house (bamboo with grass roof) of the Wycliffe ladies.
The T'bolis are one of many minority tribes found in the Philippines and particularly on the island of Mindanao. Most of them have little or no schooling.They live primarily in the mountains making a living by burning off a patch of forest and planting upland rice, corn and a few vegetables.They also hunt and gather things that nature provides without human labor."
Al and I got married in Lake Sebu five years later.
My first impression of the T'bolis enticed me to go back to their beautiful mountain in 1971.I was hired as an English teacher at Sta. Cruz Mission in Lake Sebu and would leave as a Development Officer three years later, a better person for having shared a lifestyle so fascinating, so different from my own.
On that first encounter with the tribe in 1969, I wrote
T'boli hear me come!
You have come and you have gone.
I have seen you arrayed in nature's majestic vest.I've trodden your footpaths, combed your auburn sands, kicked your multi-colored pebbles, braved your streams and I've come in time to see your pristine soul clad in all your moods.
I know I will never grow tired thinking of you...of your crawling hills and tripping brook, of your floating clouds and sable skies, of your caressing sunlight and rhythmical raindrops, of your winding trails and doleful huts, of your swaying ferns and whispering bamboos, of your rustling leaves and flickering stars...of death on your towering mountains and of Manuel's ten-cents-fare to heaven.
Tboli your memories will always cling to my heart...my mind.You will always remind me of your intriguing tribe and your striking people, of your tinkling anklets and exquisite beadworks, of your fascinating hairdo and eye-catching costume, of your brass belts and intricate handicrafts, of death on your warm bosom and of Finny's ten-cents-fare to heaven!
You will always want me to stay with you, where I can strum my guitar and gaze endlessly at your crescent moon tacked against your fleecy clouds, where I can snuggle in bed and listen to your musical dewdrops at your chilly dawn, where I can playfully watch your chirping creatures and waddling ducks, where I can sit back and stare at your majestic sun burying itself west among your lofty hills, where I can forever watch your breath-taking twilight turning itself into a somnolent eve.
When alone I stand amidst chaos, I'll think of you once more and you'll make me long to go back where I can stay forever and dream of your green, virgin valleys cradling me to perpetual sleep.
One of these days when everything gets dull I'll think of your springs shimmering against the backdrop of your verdant hills.
One of these days when this life turns hostile, I'll seek refuge beneath your awesome skies.
One of these days when I feel my hour is come, T'boli listen attentively to my footsteps.I'll race towards your encircling arms as Felipe, Al and I have done one somber November!
When my world stops spinning, T'boli hear me come!
Postcript:I left Lake Sebu to live in the United States on August 1974.Every time I went home for a visit, Tboli land is one of the places on top of my list. Long before "destination weddings" became popular, Al and I decided to get married on top of the hills of Lake Sebu overlooking Lake S'leton in 1973.
For our 25th wedding anniversary, we could have gone anywhere else but my husband, my two children and I chose Lake Sebu.
T'boli heard us come!
Prima would love to hear from you. You may contact her at www.booksbyprima.com or primah@juno.com.
For Bisaya stories from General Santos. Click here. (This section is updated every Monday)
(March 21, 2005 issue)
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