Wednesday, December 19, 2007 Gastronomic 'Simbang Gabi'
IF THERE is anything that could have the same prominence as that of the "Simbang Gabi (Dawn Mass)" in Pampanga, it could be nothing else but the food that is associated with the season.
The Simbang Gabi started a few days back would surely draw sellers of old Christmas delicacies in church patios all across the province. The nine-day mass has been our traditional get-together event to pay homage to good old Christmas food.
The devotion, notwithstanding, try to bring a thick jacket along and stroll over other old churches in the province for the Simbang Gabi and get a taste of the local delicacies.
Friends and I usually spend most of the masses on unfamiliar churches and obscure chapels for the best food to spend the wee hours of the morning.
The distance of the rural towns and the cold trip of early morning rides would be worth the trouble. Take the Simbang Gabi at nearby Bacolor town for the best Tamales.
The Tamales that I usually encounter in most places have more banana leave packaging and whose meager content could be easily devoured in three spoonfuls.
In this town the Tamales made from Cabalatian is reputed the best. In one morning ride on Monday, I noticed that few still peddle the delicacy since some sellers have moved into the more stable market of nearby San Fernando.
A pack of Tamales would be best of the novelty if you have attended the mass at San Guillermo's half sunken church.
Move a few kilometers more and take a chance to pick up a pack of Duman from Sta. Rita town. The Duman, a green cereal made from glutinous rice, may be bought at barrio Sta. Monica.
Made from aborted "lacatan," the rice grains are winnowed and pounded to perfection (not to be confused with pinipig). The enormous labor and the sheer economy of it drive the duman into price to blood raising heights.
Again, there are those who peddle "imitation" duman. The real McCoy is not too sticky and despite having been pounded the grain still retain almost their original shape and the color of the duman should be light yellow green to almost gold.
The traditional way of eating it is with Carabao milk (a la morning cereal) and a sprinkle of ground salt. Although affluent families prefer serving it with a cup of Tsokolateng Batirul, I prefer mixing it with the hot drink.
For a little footwork we also take the leisurely walk to Guagua public market, which is a few meters away from the old church.
The Guagua public market, one of the oldest 24-hour public markets in the country, offers the best buy of real home made Kalame. The Kalame Pisalubung, which is almost a rarity now in Kapampangan tables, can be bought from among the dwindling number of deli merchants here.
Pisalabung, much like Kalame Ube (Halayang Ube), is cooked by continuously stirring the mixture until it becomes sticky hard that two persons would have to sit facing each other over a large hot pan for long hours.
The product, on the other hand, results in pale colored delicacy that a spoonful would need enormous amount of mastication from anyone who eats it.
My memories of Kalame during childhood were a bit horrid. My fear was actually rooted on the condiment of the delicacy-the Latik.
Made from coconut, the Latik produces a mammoth amount of oil that as aged-old belief has it could make ones scalp bloom with lush hair and prevent balding. Imagine your Christmas memories, not with the smell of apples or of white Christmas but with the scent of the horrid Latik in your scalp.
My Lola, despite my extreme disapproval, would stash in my head the "miracle oil" while invoking the wisdom of the ages, which my bit-more-civilized parents dare not question.
True enough, I have a lush crowning glory years after which seem to get in the way of my work. My Christmas is not complete without Kalame minus the Latik.
But if you do not want to jump from one town to another just for the food, try Sto. Rosario Parish Church in Angeles City which brings on a complete lane of make shift stalls offering all traditional food stuffs from Bibingka, Puto Bumbong, Suman, Tamales to Salabat.
However, one must be careful in choosing since some vendors have jumped into commercializing the food and sacrificing the taste and quality of their product.
If you're a bit picky, some actually offer a little taste test. After the mass here, you'll be greeted by a throng of Puto Bumbong ovens, with factory-like pipes spewing out white aromatic smoke.
A word of caution though, if you wish to search these places for the best possible Christmas treat, just make sure never to forget the essence of the season. (IOF)
