IT FELT like it—a quick trip to Europe. A version of it, that is. That’s Tokyo for you.
The city is a bagful of surprises. Perhaps we’ve been to Harajuku, Asakusa, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Ginza and Omotesando, the popular and touristy districts in the city, but Tokyo has numerous pockets of you-gotta-check-this-out spots we’ve never heard or read of.
To be hosted in Tokyo is a big deal. Even better is having an adventurer for a host. One that can point you to the right direction, destinations that didn’t appear on your radar but worth the side trip. For me, Jiyugaoka is one of those places. Did the name pop up on your pre-trip research?
A 10-minute train ride from Shibuya via the Tokyu Toyoko line will take you to southern Meguro’s charming neighborhood of Jiyugaoka. It’s referred to as the Little Europe of Tokyo, my host told me. I had to see it for myself.
Just like the other appealing stories of Tokyo, Jiyugaoka has its story to tell. The once rural area started its development when the railway was introduced in the 1920’s. Later in the decade, a local secondary school was established—the Jiyugaoka-gakuen, which literally translates to “Liberal Hill Academy”. It was named as such due to its liberal education.
The nearby train station’s name was changed to Jiyugaoka. Thereafter, the surrounding area was referred to the same way. In 1932, “Jiyugaoka” was formally adopted for addresses in the area.
Today, Jiyugaoka is said to be one of the most desirable places to live in Tokyo. The neighborhood plays host to a good number of “zakka” stores (zakka or “miscellaneous things” is a Japanese fashion and design phenomenon. The term refers to everything and anything that improves the home, life and appearance), fashionable boutiques, stylish cafes and restaurants set along narrow paths and pedestrian-friendly streets that exude a very European feel.
Compared to the touristy areas of the city, the pace is slower in Jiyugaoka. The weekday visit had a very Sunday vibe to it: locals relaxing on benches with their young or walking their pets along the Marie Claire Promenade and Green Street lined with blooming sakura trees, a group enjoying hanami, bicycles with baskets of fresh flowers and produce passed me by, shoppers took their time browsing at the racks and shelves, and couples enjoying coffee at a quaint al fresco coffee shop.
What I missed though was the Venetian-looking canal and piazza and the 800-year old Kumano Shrine and the Joshin Temple aka Kuhonbutsu. I have a good reason to revisit the area on my next trip.
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