Sunset at Yogyakarta’s Prambanan

The view of a temple from the main temple (Claire Marie Algarme)
The view of a temple from the main temple (Claire Marie Algarme)

DURING the time I lived in Indonesia, I would often pass by the Prambanan area whenever I travel from Yogyakarta to nearby areas or towards Surabaya.

Although I was based in Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital, Yogyakarta was one of the cities I frequented at that time. However, I would only catch a glimpse of the silhouette of Prambanan from afar. While I have visited and climbed Borobudur a few times, Prambanan seemed somewhat a dreamy vision before me.

Recently, my social media accounts reminded me of my Indonesia trip last year when I went back to Yogyakarta, in the central part of Java. The trip provided me with the opportunity to finally enter and explore Prambanan’s grounds.

When we arrived there, the view looked so surreal. The brown structures from afar, with the green grass and trees in the foreground and the golden rays of the sun as the backdrop.

As we approached the structures, we saw rubbles of big stones and bricks scattered around the main temple area. Prambanan, built around the ninth century AD, had been damaged by earthquakes. The major one was during the 16th century and the more recent one in 2006. It was also affected by several volcanic activities in the region. For a long time, the structures were also abandoned.

The whole compound originally had 240 temples, but 224 of those very small ones. There’s one huge structure at the center, with two slightly smaller temples on either side. But these Trimurti temples are obviously the three biggest edifices in the complex.

There are three Vahana temples in front of the Trimurti temples. All these structures have a similar architecture to those of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It’s a Hindu architecture that mirrors Mount Meru, which is part of Hindu cosmology.

We entered the windowless chambers of the bigger temples and found the images of Vishnu, Ganesha, Shiva and Brahma in separate chambers. But what captured our attention are the bas-reliefs around the temple structures. Some portray the story of Ramayana and Bhagavata Purana. We circled the main buildings where scenes from the narrative are etched on the walls. Locals told us that religious rituals and ceremonies are still performed in this sacred site.

The wind blew and the dust formed a cloud-like covering around the temples. The setting sun gave a natural glow around the area that even made the ambiance a bit magical. We walked around the compound where some activities and stores are also found, while the sky was changing colors.

As dusk came, we decided to go back to the main city of Yogyakarta. Too bad we missed the night performances that happen in Prambanan. Visitors flock in Prambanan at night to watch the Ramayana Ballet that brings to life the story of Rama and Shinta, while the colorful lights and the temples at the backdrop provide a wonderful mood not found in theatres.

Going back to Yogyakarta after 15 years was definitely worth it as I was able to set foot in the magical place of Prambanan. Like the bas-reliefs on its walls, the memory of my visit to this sacred ground is etched in my mind. It was like stepping into history and absorbing the spiritual aura of the place. True enough, Prambanan has its own allure that seems to draw people to its bosom.

All photos are by this author unless otherwise stated. Claire Marie Algarme blogs at http://firsttimetravels.com. Follow her as @firsttimetravel on Twitter and Instagram and like her Facebook page First-time Travels blog.

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