YOU wander around the old castle in Tokyo and marvel at the architecture that survived for centuries. The next castle is as breathtaking, and so is the next. Past the ancient fortification is modern day Tokyo. The concrete landscape poses as a stark contrast to the structure behind you. The old and new coexist – this is just one of Japan’s wonders.
You ponder on how it is to walk along the streets of Edo, of old Tokyo. Well, a spot not far from the new capital may just give you that chance. It’s something you don’t get to see in Tokyo—and that makes the place special.
Thirty minutes away from Central Tokyo is Kawagoe City in the Saitama Prefecture. It is referred to as “Little Edo.” Its close proximity makes it a perfect destination for a day tour. Here, you'll get a glimpse of the traditional and authentic side of Japan. Go rent a kimono or yukata.
Kawagoe developed as a castle town of the Kawagoe clan. It was a strategic location north of the capital. Connected via the Shingashigawa River and the Kawagoe Kaido Road from Edo made the town accessible to travel, trade and commerce, which lead the place to prosper. Having developed a strong cultural and commercial bond with Edo—and eventually inheriting much of what the capital was including the architecture—it was named “Koedo.” or “Little Edo.”
The look of Edo period is preserved along Ichiban-gai (mani street), the Kurazukuri Zone (traditional architecture zone). Here, the street is lined with old two-story warehouse-style shops with walls made of clay designed with traditional details of large black plastered-Onigawara roofing and thick gatefold. The oldest in the row is the Osawa House. Built in 1792, the house has been designated as an Important Cultural Property.
Straying off the main street, what else is there to see in Kawagoe?
The 16-meter tall “Toki no Kane” (Time Bell Tower) hovers over the area (original tower was built between 1624 and 1644. The current tower was built in 1894 after the Great Fire of Kawagoe). It’s been telling time to the residents since the mid-1600s. Today it chimes at 6 a.m., 12 nn, 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. The architectural masterpiece was designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings of Japan on December 1, 1999.
Sweet-toothed? Head to Kashiya Yokosho. The “Penny Candy Alley” is where artisanal candies are sold in 19th-century candy shops along a stone-paved alley. They say you also get the nostalgic feel of the Showa Period in this spot.
Perhaps a day is not enough to enjoy the place. I never got to stray farther from the warehouse district. A perfect time to revisit would be on the third weekend of October when the city celebrates the Kawagoe Festival (a designated “Intangible Cultural Heritage” since 2006). Then I can check out a few more of Little Edo’s highlights- The Honmaru Goten, the Lord's residences and only remaining structure of Kawagoe Castle; Kita-in Temple, the former 'Tendaishu' Head Temple of Kanto, home to the only remaining structures of the former Edo Castle.
How to get there: From central Tokyo, take the Tobu Tojo Line Express Train.
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