MILAN menswear designers are sending clear signals for next fall and winter: Feminine touches are not only acceptable, they are necessary.
Milan Fashion Week previews focused on menswear; collections featured shiny and sheer textiles, sequined garments, lace and scoop necks.
The trend to feminize the male wardrobe could be interpreted as encouragement for getting in touch with a female side or as an explicit sign of solidarity after a year when the sexual harassment and assault of women became a global theme.
Some highlights from the final day of shows in Milan on Monday, featuring Emporio Armani, Fendi and N21:
Emporio Armani tapped primitive instincts while maintaining a balance between formality and sport in the Armani group’s line for younger fashion-forward men.
Fendi wants to entice younger adults into eschewing streetwear and dressing more formally. The brand’s menswear collection designed with input from Karl Lagerfeld, featured suits in shiny materials, metallic accents on knitwear and sheer-collared shirts, and organza tuxedo jackets.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua dresses men in sheer cable knits, plunging scoop necks and lace shirts for his latest N21 collection, exploring the themes of male eroticism and ambiguity through mariner motifs.
“I like the fragility of the sailor,” Dell’Acqua said backstage. Rainier Werner Fassbinder’s 1982 film “Querelle” provided references “to present a kind of camaraderie among men that isn’t comprised only of muscularity but also a certain ambiguity, a certain eroticism.”
A peach lace shirt was paired with tan trousers, a tuxedo jacket with a tank top. The designer maintained an edge with the silver detailing on duffle coats and the O-rings fastening a chain around the neck.
Slim trousers tapering at the ankle were worn with T-shirts or knits made of form-revealing, nearly sheer mohair or cashmere. Oversized duffle coats and bombers delivered contrast. AP