ALSO known as The Danube valley, this Unesco-listed landscape, located midway between the towns of Melk and Krems, is one of the most prominent destinations in Lower Austria.
On a day trip out of Vienna, the usual tour starts with an hour-and-a-half cruise down the Danube River starting at Krems and ending in Dürnstein. The cruise boats are huge – with an open upper deck and a full-service restaurant below which makes for a perfect, slow-paced cruise with stunning views from both sides. Due to global warming that resulted in long periods with no rain, there are some days that these boat cruises are canceled because of low water levels. But we got lucky, so even if it was very cold and rainy, I really went up to the almost- deserted upper deck to take in the amazing views of the vineyards, flower farms and the many, many monuments – from little farmhouses to historic castles that dotted the 40-kilometer stretch of the renowned Wachau landscape.
We alighted in the town of Dürnstein, and as we climbed up and down its winding paths, our guide pointed out to the hilltop ruins of Kuenringerburg Castle, where Richard the Lion Heart of England was held captive by Duke Leopold V.
Dürnstein has the feel of an empty movie set because it is very pretty, and it seemed like our group was the only one lurking around at that time. Again, I was reminded of the sad, but understandable, exodus of the younger generation for jobs in the city; a harsh reality we always encounter in the small towns of Europe. The sweeping view of the vineyards from higher ground was so breathtaking that we enjoyed taking our time here. If I were a wine connoisseur, this would truly be my heaven.
Back on the bus, everyone was excited as we made our way to Melk Abbey, which we had first seen from the boat.
One of the biggest and most beautifully preserved Baroque structures I have ever seen, it has had Benedictine monks continually living and working within its walls since 1089. Living by the rules of St. Benedict, translating into action the words ora et labora et lege (pray, work and read). The tours in the abbey follow a strict schedule and no pictures are allowed inside. As we walked through the abbey museum and its marble halls with scenic balconies, I was most impressed by the library. It was spectacular to say the least, and there are areas in which visitors may browse through some parts of the collection.
As we stepped into the Abbey Church, I was stunned. Having seen my fair share of cathedrals, mosques and churches over the years, this one deserved its reputation as the high point of this monastery. It appeared quite ostentatious with the use of so much gold, but our guide mentioned that the desired effect of its design was to “offer a glimpse of heaven”. I shall leave it up to you, dear reader, to interpret it as you wish.