A spongy rolled cake of meringue and yellow custard, the Brazo de Mercedes is probably one of the classics of Filipino desserts. It is especially recognized for its fluffy and very light characteristics.
There are saying that the making of Brazo de Mercedes started as early as the Spanish colonization in the Philippines. The delicacy was believed to be a bright idea to make out of discarded yolks as egg whites were then used as plaster in building churches. The Filipinos, who didn’t want to waste the precious egg yolks, decided to come up with a dessert they eventually called Brazo de Mercedes.
Davao Food Guide blogger Dianne Sia-Luceñera shared how she read before that Mercedes is supposed to be an old woman whose arms jiggle which means the pastry Brazo de Mercedes should normally be fluffy and jiggles when moved.
Here in Davao City, this classic and traditional Brazo de Mercedes have been made and re-made by different homegrown bakery and pastry shops.
Some made it as the simple dessert that it is while others chose to give it a surprising twist. However they decided to make the Brazo de Mercedes, it only proves one thing: this classic lives on.
We asked help from online followers and pastry chef and experts who recommended their top choices of Brazo de Mercedes. From these, we invited sweet-toothed sisters Lara Celine Tonogbanua and Mia Carmela Tonogbanua of Lara Mia Café and Bistro, Davao Food Guide blogger Dianne Sia-Luceñara, and Reyna Davaoña 2019 Rojean Buhian to help us decide which is the best Brazo de Mercedes in the city.
Lara Celine Tonogbanua
“It’s a good surprise naman pero I don’t know if it will sit well with others na ayaw ng durian.”
Mia Carmela Tonogbanua
“Interesting. I thought kasi hindi ka maka-play around masyado with Brazo...’Yung meringue niya mas gusto ko than the first.”
Dianne Sia-Luceñera
“I like the texture of the meringue. It’s very fluffy in the mouth, doesn’t leave murag egg na taste. Ganahan ko sa meringue niya. For the filling, it’s definitely something different because durian – very Davao.”
Rojean Buhian
“Ang sarap tapos pero ‘yung white part niya sa gitna mas gusto ko ‘yung sa isang brand pero sa yellow part mas gusto ko ito kasi may durian flavor. Nagco-complement siya sa lasa ng white part.”
After thorough deliberation and tasting of the anonymous three brands before them, the judges have decided that the best Brazo de Mercedes is that of Uncle Mark bakery.
Uncle Mark is one of the oldest homegrown bakeries in Davao City baking breads and other pastries for more than three decades now. They have branches along Quimpo Boulevard; McArthur Highway, Matina; and Buhangin. They can be contacted through (082) 296 1363.