Senso-ji: The oldest temple in Tokyo

JAPAN. The hidden dragon under the giant lantern. It represents Senso-ji's official name -- “Kinryuzan” or “Golden Dragon Mountain.” (Jinggoy I. Salvador)
JAPAN. The hidden dragon under the giant lantern. It represents Senso-ji's official name -- “Kinryuzan” or “Golden Dragon Mountain.” (Jinggoy I. Salvador)

IT'S one of the most crowded spots in Tokyo. Why? Maybe because the very photogenic and unique giant red lantern is a scene stealer and perhaps created a tsunami of interest on social media. But what’s more interesting is history of the iconic Asukasa temple.

The Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo. What makes it fascinating to both local and foreign tourists? Let me list it down.

The gate

The Kaminarimon aka the Thunder Gate. Like I said, this structure is a scene-stealer. A successful front act to the main show. It is one of the two outer gates of the Senso-ji, the main temple. It features a giant, vivid red lantern measuring 11.7 meters tall and 11.4 meters wide. On it is the gate’s name in Japanese character written in black. At the base of the lantern is a plate carved with a dragon. It stands for the official name of Senso-ji—“Kinryuzan” or “Golden Dragon Mountain.”

Featured in this gate are four statues: Fujin, the wind god and Rajin, thunder god at the gate’s front; and the Buddhist god Tenryu and goddess Kinryu on the rear side facing the temple.

The original gate built in 941 A.D. was in another location and was razed by fire in 1865. In 1635, it was reconstructed in the current location, but wasn’t spared from destruction either. It burned down in 1639, 1649, 1757, and 1865. The gate we see today was built in 1960.

This gate has become the symbol of Asakusa.

The approach

To reach the main temple, one must pass the Nakamise Dori, which translates to "inside street." It’s a 200-meter street that leads to the second gate, the Hozomon, from the outer gate, Kaminarimon. This is a shopping street flanked by hundreds of souvenir shops, some said to be more than a hundred years old, selling typical Japanese products.

One may think this is a recent addition due to the influx of visitors, but no, it is several centuries old as well. Pilgrims frequent the temple most especially during the festivals including the Sanja Matsuri, the biggest in the city, and vendors are there to sell provisions.

The five-story Pagoda

Close to the inner gate is the stately five-story pagoda, a 10th-century structure. It is closed to visitors because it serves as a graveyard and houses thousands of memorial tablets. Only family members are allowed to enter on specific times of the year.

The inner gate

One more gate to pass through before reaching the inner complex. The Hozomon or the Treasure House Gate pretty much looks like the Thunder Gate, only larger. It features three lanterns, one red giant lantern in between two smaller black ones.

The temple

Let’s start with the legend. Two brothers went fishing in the Shumida river and caught a small golden statue in their nets. No matter how much they got rid of it, the statue kept coming back. Showing it to the village chieftain, it was identified as Kannon, a Buddhist deity. It was enshrined.

Senso-ji, founded in 645 A.D., is the oldest temple in Tokyo. It is dedicated to the Bodhisattva of compassion, Kannon Bosatsu. The Kannon enshrined in this temple is said to be the same statue the fishermen “caught” in the river centuries ago.

The temple was rebuilt after it was bombed and destroyed during World War II. Just like the old tree by the temple that was hit during the air raids and grew back, the rebuilding of the temple became a symbol of rebirth to the Japanese people. It receives over 30 million visitors annually making it one of the most visited spiritual spots in the world.

The festival

Late Spring, particularly on the third weekend of May, is a good time to visit Senso-ji temple. This is when the Sanja Matsuri happens. Sanja Matsuri is Tokyo's largest and most popular festival.

The festival, which lasts for four days, honors the three men- the fishermen and their village elder— who founded and established the Buddhist temple.

What else is there?

There is another temple in the precinct. It is part of the Senso-ji and the abbot’s residence. It allows access to the public once a year only. They say the garden in it is beautiful. I came at the right time. But that’s another story.

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Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com.

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