Salvador: Asakusa’s secret garden

JAPAN. Beautiful and tranquil. (Photo by Jinggoy I. Salvador)
JAPAN. Beautiful and tranquil. (Photo by Jinggoy I. Salvador)

ON YOUR trip to Tokyo I bet Asukasa was in your itinerary. You had a photo with the giant red lantern of the Kaminarimon behind you, shopped for a souvenir or two along the Nakamise-dori, had a selfie at the next big gate, the Hozomon, and performed what was required at a Buddhist temple—the cleansing ritual at the purification fountain, burned osenko (incense) and fanned the healing smoke towards you, threw a coin at the offering box and said a prayer.

Oh, you were wearing the traditional kimono, too? That gave you enough reason to take more photos in the different areas of the famed temple.

What time of the year were you in Senso-ji? If you visited the place in springtime, between mid-March to the first week of May, then you must have chanced upon the temple’s secret garden, like I did, at the southwestern side of the temple grounds. It’s near the Gojunoto, the five-story pagoda.

The Garden of Denbou-in Temple is only open to the public for a limited number of days in a year. It’s a truly a rare experience. Plus, consider it an honor to be able to take a stroll around the garden. Why? Because back in the days the garden was open to nobles only. Ordinary citizens were not allowed in. It was not until the mid-19th century when the garden was opened to the public.

What is the Denbou-in? It’s the residence of Kansu, Sensoji Temple’s abbot, and the place where the priests of Sensoji Temple do Buddhist discipline. It was also where the Shoguns and nobles often rest when visiting the temple.

Much about the Denbou-in is centuries old—the entrance hall, drawing room (Daishoin), and the garden, which is said to have been conceived by Ensyu Kobori, an eminent gardener in the 17th century, on a 10,000 square meter area. It’s not as expansive as Tokyo’s famous gardens, like Kiyosumi Teien, Hamarikyu, and those in the Imperial Palace and Meiji Jingu, but the Denpoin garden is as breathtaking as its larger counterparts.

Shell out ¥300 and you get two great deals. Yes, not just the garden but a stroll in history via the visual arts. Entrance to the garden is through the Teokubesu Tenjikan. In this building, select artworks from the Sensoji collection (believed to be in the thousands). Each year, a new batch is exhibited.

The makeshift gallery’s exit is the garden’s entrance. Now, stand straight, chin up and be the present day noble strolling in the ancient garden.

You missed this part of the temple? Then I just gave you another good reason to revisit Senso-ji on your next trip to Tokyo.

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For more photos about this feature and other travel stories, visit www.jeepneyjinggoy.com

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Email me at jinggoysalvador@yahoo.com

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