Remembering the north

FILLING LUNCH. Cafe by the Ruins' Mama Jean's Bamboo Bowl was one flavorful spoonful after another. (RJ Lumawag)
FILLING LUNCH. Cafe by the Ruins' Mama Jean's Bamboo Bowl was one flavorful spoonful after another. (RJ Lumawag)

BEING born in Tabuk, Kalinga, I tend to be drawn towards this portion of the Philippines. Maybe, the reason why I prefer visiting destinations in the highlands compared to the beaches is because of my connection to this place.

Sadly, for nearly two decades, I was not able to return to the place or region I was born in.

In 2017, I had the opportunity to revisit Northern Luzon again.

Meileilan Usin-Mattinson, a fashion blogger and influencer based in the United States, hired me to work with her for a series of travel vlogs in the Philippines. Among the places that we visited were Sagada, Mountain Province and Banaue, Ifugao.

We may not be able to visit my birth town, but I was more than happy to go to these two towns.

Before visiting the two towns, we made a quick stop in Baguio City for breakfast.

Looking out the car window as we made our way to the restaurant, I forgot how charming this city is.

Its narrow winding streets, cool climate, buildings built on the side of hills, and the lush trees dotting the city, Baguio just gives off this different vibe from the other cities in the country.

After breakfast, we made our way to Sagada, where we will spend two nights. The route leading to Sagada was beautifully scenic. Seeing clouds rolling over the mountains was a sight to behold. The air up here was clean and fresh, unlike in the city where it can be dusty or smelly.

Hours later, our van entered the narrow streets of Sagada. Unfortunately, we arrived in the evening and you can't fully appreciate the town in the evening. It will be on our last day in Sagada when I am able to appreciate this small town.

The day after our arrival, we left Sagada early in the morning to go to Banaue to visit the Batad Rice Terraces, which is among the Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras, a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Before going to the rice terraces, we had breakfast at this bed and breakfast inn. From where I was sitting, I had a wonderful bird's eye view of the Banaue town.

Since it was still early in the morning, the town was still covered with fog. As the fog lifts, it was slowly revealing a town tucked within hills. It later revealed a town with houses and buildings built near terraces.

The Batad Rice Terraces was several minutes away from the town. It was also around a 20-minute walk from where we parked the van. However, the walk was worth it.

After walking the narrow path at the side of the hills, it led us to the village of Batad. A few more steps, we were greeted with the breathtaking view of the Batad Rice Terraces. These centuries-old terraces are a testament to our cultural communities' ingenuity.

From the top of the terraces, you will notice how the whole village is tucked within the mountains. I just love seeing how the clouds hang low on the mountains, giving it a surreal and dramatic view.

Despite the modern times and steady streams of tourists, the culture of the indigenous peoples in this area is still rich and they proudly share it with the visitors who come here.

As we made our way down from the terraces, several locals can be seen planting rice. Some of the rice farmers were already old, well into their 60s while others were still in their 30s or 40s.

Meanwhile, Sagada was also a charming town. Similar to most towns in this part of Luzon, the roads of Sagada were also narrow and winding with houses built on the sides of hills.

We were lucky to visit the town during the Etag Festival. The town center was bustling with both tourists and locals. Locals can be seen selling goods at the bazaar while tourists made their way to the Hanging Coffins or explore the town.

While our trip to Sagada and Banaue ended, I was quietly hoping to revisit this portion of the country soon. Fortunately, I did not have to wait long. In 2018, I visited Baguio City for a work-related trip. This time, I was able to enjoy the city more. Being someone who loves to explore food, I did make an effort to try something new and delicious.

Of course, I did not miss out on the famed strawberry taho. Some vendors actually have preserved strawberries in their taho.

Then I was able to enjoy a delicious meal at Cafe by the Ruins. Their Mama Jean's Bamboo Bowl was memorable. It is bamboo shoots topped with steamed chicken, bacon, and shitake mushrooms. Their Pinikpikan (Cordillera chicken soup with smoked salted pork) and Camote Bread were also great.

One thing I will not forget about this trip to Baguio City was stumbling upon the Mt. Cloud Bookshop. While we were waiting for our dinner at Hill Station at Casa Vallejo Hotel, I decided to explore the hotel grounds. It was while exploring, I stumbled upon this bookshop.

The local bookshop was quite unique offering a variety of books by Filipino authors. I bought myself some comics that I could not find in the big bookstores at malls.

I would have wanted to explore Baguio and Northern Luzon more but both my times here are cut short. I will always remember the charm of the places I visited here.

Hopefully, I will be able to explore the city more in the near future or after this pandemic.

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