KEVIN Kwan underpinned Singapore as the center of Asian luxury, but when I think of Oriental excess, I can’t help but trail my thoughts to Macau. Having a strong historical foothold as symbolized by its centuries-old pre-colonial temple Ma Kok Miu, the Macau we know today is often understated as “the Las Vegas of Asia” despite its gaming industry actually far exceeding the western comparison.
In Macau, the sights are beautiful, the streets (relatively) clean, and the food (oh God, the food) is every epicure’s dream. I think what sets it apart from its Asian neighbors is the region’s urban, admittedly idiosyncratic eclecticism of Eastern and Western influences. The people are undeniably Asian, yes, but its palpable cultural quirks, in the local cuisine for example, trace their roots from both the Chinese and the European sensibilities of the Portuguese.
Notwithstanding its overt...overtness, the subversive tourist in me wanted to veer away from the glitz of the Macanese; to try and experience what else Macau has to offer. On our first night, my friend Cassandra and I snuck out and loitered outside hotel grounds where we met a fellow tourist who referred to Macau as China’s own “Sin City.”
“This is where the Chinese take part in the excess before returning to their homeland in a ‘cleansed state.’ Think of it as capitalistic purging, if you will”—his words. While it may be true at a lens, I think Macau has duality: You can either be part of the flurry of gamblers and city dwellers in the Cotai Strip, or go up north to the idle “Old Macau” in Taipa which looks and feels like 17th century Europe.
Old Macau is a living relic that chronicles the Portuguese occupation. The beautiful black and off-white cobbled streets of Santo Antonio will lead you to the emblematic ruins of the St. Paul church. The area has plenty of nooks and crannies worth exploring where you can find the best (and worst) deals. A piece of traveler’s advice: Do NOT buy souvenirs near St. Paul’s. It’s legal robbery!
“Go further down alleyways to find better prices,” lectured our tour guide while giving us a stern look over our purchase of a $30 set of dingy fridge magnets. Hindsight is 20/20.
We then made our way to Ma Kok Miu temple to pay respects to the Sea Goddess Mazu. Before the Portuguese settlement, Macau served as a port of provisions and respite for sea merchants. They prayed to Mazu for safety. I half-jokingly expected the modern devotees to be casino patrons who played their luck and lost.
We managed to squeeze a few late-night visits to the Taipa Village in Old Macau. Victorian lamp posts and Macau’s natural cool breeze take you back to a different era. We went to a few watering holes in the area where the local Portuguese flock. The Old Taipa Tavern or “OTT” is one of Macau’s best-known pubs. Indistinct cross-cultural chatter fills the air from Portuguese, Chinese, to Filipino; though the latter may have been more conspicuous after some of our company have had one too many Hoegarden Rosées (okay, it was probably Cassandra and me). Another pub worth visiting is Bar 171 which has the best Cajun fries I’ve ever had and whose song playlist is likely influenced by its mostly-Filipino staff.
Macau was my last international trip before the word “quarantine” held any significance. Although it’s not the usual place I’d go for location-wise, my expectations were subverted nonetheless. I still got a glimpse of serenity amid the bustle, I met strangers who turned out to be lifelong friends, and I got to try the best of Europe in Asia among all places. I think traveling for traveling’s sake helps you experience different patterns of culture. Go further, and you actually realize that we are more alike than different.