As we approached the Larena port on my return to the island of Siquijor, I was awestruck. All shades of blue, my favorite color, seemed to sparkle in welcome at the portside shores, and I knew that this visit would be more wonderful than before. We stopped for lunch and checked into our cozy nook for the long weekend -- the famous Coco Grove. The bellman told me that during the pandemic, they had spent time expanding and improving the facilities, so it was now more delightful and complete than the last time I was here in 2015.
For the first half of that year alone, almost 35,000 domestic and 33,000 foreign visitors had found their way here, and not surprisingly, it was the French again who topped the foreigner list. I was torn about wishing that more people would discover the island, as I love that it is not yet that crowded and yet, it is crowded enough for me.
A typical touristy day here usually starts with a visit to the 400-plus-year-old Enchanted Balete Tree in Lazi. It is as wide as it is tall, quite impressive at 60 feet in height. Eight years ago, when we dropped by, there was practically no one there. We found our way to the tree and the pool fronting it and sat on smoothed stones to enjoy the instant “fish spa” until someone approached us for our P5 donation. Today, it is very much a tourist hub with all the organized chaos that comes with it. It now costs P20 to enter the improved and extended facilities with much more paved areas for visitors to sit on and the “fish spa” now contains fish of all sizes. I found myself enjoying the varied reactions of people trying out this experience -- squeals of delight, surprise, fear and then there was me, in super chill mode because it was the cheapest foot spa after all.
After that, we moved to the Hapitanan Broom Shot stop where for a small donation, you could clamber up to a platform, get on a “witching broom,” and jump for the perfect photo op. You could also take your snacks at that place while listening to a local rondalla group if you were not in a rush. There were several stops like this scattered all over the island.
No visit to Siquijor was complete without visiting the Lazi Church (San Isidro Labrador Parish) and its huge convent across the street. Declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines, it was also nominated for inclusion in the list of Unesco World Heritage Sites under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines. The Lazi convent, the oldest in Southeast Asia, was also reputed to be the biggest. I did not enter it this time as I chose to ogle at those huge, elegant trees that framed the complex; I daresay they are the most alluring “residents” of the island. The convent’s restoration undertaken by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines in 1916 appeared to have been completed. Initially constructed by Spanish friars in 1884 and completed by 1891, that two-storey, L-shaped complex is famous for its ground floor made of coral stones, open ventilation and elevated sections. Home to the Siquijor Heritage Museum, the artifacts and treasures there were priceless in our heritage, and the exquisite beauty of the place made me wish that every major island in the Philippines had such a significant remnant of the past like this one.
Cambugahay Falls was our next stop and was also the one that was most crowded, but since it was a weekend with a motorcycle event ongoing, that level of people was expected. After registration and paying the entrance fee of P20, it was time to descend the 135 steps that took you to the first level of the falls. Do not stop there as there were two more levels accessible on foot. I had to commend the guides in the area as most helpful, making sure you step on secure stones as you tread through water to cross to the other side of the topmost level. This center of activity has rafts that can be rented to get as near as you can to the falls and even has rope swings that make a jump into the cool waters more adventurous but relatively safe.
The town of Maria, for me, was the one blessed with the most beautiful beaches on the island. I was even tempted at one point to have the car stop, so I could take a dip in the crystal-clear waters. Salagdoong Beach is located there, and this naturally beautiful cove -- a favorite for campers -- is breathtaking. We climbed up the small island that sat on its shore, and my boss, who was from there, joyfully pointed out the platform that he used to jump off that cliff into the open sea. The view from that point was postcard-level, and I told myself that when I would return, I would definitely stay in that area and just enjoy the vibe.
Driving through the empty highways in the town of Enrique Villanueva was made more enjoyable by a quick snack stop to try Pan Bisaya. However, that famous bucayo bread was not available, so we just sat around waiting for a new batch of pan de sal from their clay oven. I could finish each P2 piece in one bite, but I was happy -- hot bread is always a delight. One more stop before winding down our fully packed day was to see Paliton Beach -- a public white sand beach that the local government took great care of, so the locals would always have their own place to savor the pristine beauty of that mystical island.