EVEN in the coldest and iciest of climes, beauty is born. Inspired by the frost flowers of the tundras in the northernmost part of the globe, designer Adrian Madarieta created a three-piece collection called the Tundran Witch.
“The whole collection intends to give the viewers the sense of being transported to the tundras,” he says. The designer used white, silver and gray to mimic frost and winter. Without relying much on color, the interest lies in form and texture. Adrian began creating each garment with the shape and silhouette in mind, opting for geometric shapes and exaggerating the shoulders and hips.
To create varying textures, Adrian says a lot of meticulous work went into the details that call to mind sheets of icy wind and the fine, delicate frost flowers of the tundras. Corded lace was crumpled and dyed in different shades of gray for an ombre effect. The collection uses mostly cordova fabric, with hand-stitched charmeuse to contrast with the texture of the lace. Japanese glass beads catch the light like sparkling ice.
Appliques, beads and lace all over the top drift to an overlay just below the waist.
The overall silhouette is sleek and slim, with no protrusions to the cut, just added texture.
A short dress features a simple skirt to balance out a fully detailed top, which is a reworked corporate shirt. The designer combines an upturned lapel with a deep neckline that frames the beadwork of the top. Appliques running down one side look like frost flowers sweeping across a tundra plain. Corded lace and layered fabric on the opposite side add contrast to the softness of the “frost flowers.”
The avant garde piece in the collection features angular shoulder pads. Sheer sleeves cover the entire length of the arms. A fitted pencil skirt of corded lace is overlaid with folds of fabric that exaggerate the hips. A belted waist further emphasizes the full shapes of the shoulders and hips.
While most designers rely on tailors and seamstresses to execute their designs, Adrian involved himself in both the design and creation of these clothes. He depended on a seamstress to create the base of these pieces, but did all the appliques, treatment of the corded lace, and the beadwork himself. He says of this collection that, like an abstract painting, he hopes to achieve the effect of the tundras through his chosen silhouettes, textures and colors.
Designer: Adrian Madarieta
Photographer: Christine Cueto
Hair and Make-Up: Chady Pantaleon
Model: Kay Marie Berangel of CORD Models and Talents