Erwan’s Cebu episode serves the island’s story beyond lechon

Erwan’s Cebu episode serves the island’s story beyond lechon
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One thing we love about content creators, especially those who cover food, is when they do their homework. Erwan Heusaff’s food channel, FEATR, has always stood out for its respect toward culture and its curiosity beyond just taste. Each episode goes deeper, tracing food back to its origins, stories and the people who keep traditions alive.

Released on Oct. 26, 2025, Erwan and his team’s latest episode dives into Cebu, showing viewers why the island is so much more than its lechon.

“We’re in Cebu, which has always been seen as kind of like a second city,” he said while starting his day with a comforting combination of puto-sikwate. “But it has so much distinct culture that makes it so different.”

Eat like a local

Erwan began his walk at Taboan Public Market, a place most tourists save for last when they’re hunting for dried fish souvenirs, but he did the opposite. His first stop was breakfast: a warm plate of puto maya, the violet sticky rice cooked in coconut milk, paired with sikwate, a rich Cebuano hot chocolate made from tablea (cacao tablets).

There, he also tried his hand at cooking Chorizo de Cebu, the sweet, garlicky local sausage, before exploring the rows of dried fish stalls that give Taboan its distinct scent and charm.

From there, Erwan headed to Barangay Tisa, the humble food haven known for its famous siomai stalls. Joining him was Steven Jan Gonzales Liwanag, better known online as Haydol Food Trip, a content creator who spotlights small carinderias to help boost local eateries.

Steven took Erwan to Sinigang sa Tisa, where they talked about Cebuano staples like mais (steamed corn grits eaten as rice), the Cebuano take on sinigang na baboy and the beloved humba. He also introduced the concept of “duko-duko” — home-based carinderias often tucked inside residential areas, where diners literally have to “duck” to enter, hence the name.

Chinese connection

FEATR also explored how Cebu’s food and culture have been shaped by centuries of trade with Chinese merchants from Guangdong and Fujian, who once exchanged silk, porcelain and medicinal herbs for local gold, pearls and dried fish.

This history comes alive at Cebu Lumpia House on Manalili St., Cebu City, a family-run eatery that started in the 1960s. Erwan met with its owner, who shared how their ngohiong, a Cebuano take on the spring roll — became a local favorite. Over time, their menu expanded to include more Filipino dishes, with subtle tweaks to suit the local palate: a bit saltier, a touch sweeter and deeply comforting.

To show how widespread Chinese influence is in Cebu (unlike Manila’s more centralized Chinatown), Erwan also visited Cebu Asia Chinese Drug Store on Plaridel St., Cebu City. Inside, shelves lined with glass jars of herbs and remedies tell their own stories. Curious after his food adventures, Erwan asked for something to help with digestion. The store, which has been around since 1969, still stores mainly traditional Chinese medicine and modern pharmaceuticals.

Learning hub

Erwan’s next stop was the Kabilin Center on Eduardo Aboitiz St., Cebu City, a hub for Cebuano culture, research and collaboration. There, he sat down with Louella Alix, researcher and author of “Hikay,” to learn about the island’s food memory and the evolution of its cuisine.

Louella walked him through the three basic precolonial cooking methods — documented by Pigafetta in 1521 — tinowa (broth-based dishes), sinugba (grilled food) and kinilaw (fresh seafood cured in vinegar). She also explained how pungko-pungko started as practical meals for workers before evolving into a Cebuano street food staple, serving fried pork, sausages and puso (hanging rice).

They discussed how nilarang from Pasil evolved from a rich stew with onions, garlic, ginger and black beans into a lighter soup meant to feed the growing number of fish port workers. Louella also brought Erwan to La Fortuna Bakery, one of Cebu’s oldest bakeshops, where generations of Cebuanos were introduced to breads and pastries that are now rare in neighborhood bakeries.

Cafés, restaurants

Erwan also explored Cebu’s modern food scene, from hidden bars to contemporary dining. He stopped by Eat&’s The Lost Unicorn, a speakeasy run by a South Korean owner and sampled their creative cocktails.

He later met the Visitacion brothers of Good Cup Coffee Co., whose business model connects directly with local farmers to improve both coffee quality and livelihoods. He also dropped by Abli Cebu, known for its take on Argao’s tortas, and Sialo Cebu, a fine dining spot redefining Cebuano flavors through dishes that tell a story.

Cebu Lechon

Of course, no Cebu episode would be complete without lechon. Erwan met with the owner of Leslie’s Lechon in Talisay, a family-run business that began roasting pigs in the 1940s. There, he learned the art of preparing the stuffing, the type of pigs used and the slow-roasting process that takes several hours, an enduring family tradition passed down through generations.

Food markets

To cap off the Cebuano experience, Erwan walked through different food markets, where he tried tuslob buwa, a communal dish made of sizzling pork brain, soy sauce and seasonings. Eaten by dipping puso (hanging rice) into the bubbling mixture, he described it as “primal, messy and democratic,” a true taste of Cebu street culture.

In Capitol’s food market, he also sampled budbud kabog, a native delicacy made from millet, and praised the idea of consolidating different local flavors in one space. “I really hope more local governments kind of do the same effort,” he said, noting how initiatives like this can make a real difference in preserving and celebrating regional food.

Erwan ended the episode with a reflection that sums up Cebu’s culinary soul, “All the food we encountered proves that there are still ingredients, recipes and artisans that haven’t made their way into everyday dining tables, but they exist, waiting for support, recognition and the space to grow.”

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