IN A deeply rooted tradition that intertwines cultural richness and religious earnestness in the Philippines, the break of dawn heralds the beginning of Misa de Gallo – a nine-day novena of early morning masses leading up to Christmas Day.
As millions of Filipino Catholic faithful eagerly rise before the sun, one group stands out among the early risers, contributing not just to tradition but also to the comfort of the masses.
Young or old, students or workers, people from all walks of life converge at the church doors in response to the resonant call of church bells. However, beyond the faithful, there is a silent force ensuring that these early risers do not start their day on an empty stomach.
From childhood
Sidewalk vendors, like 50-year-old Lenlen Tulo, become the unsung heroes of Misa de Gallo.
Nanay Lenlen, a longtime sidewalk vendor from a nearby barangay in Sto. Niño, has been selling goods around Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral for as long as she can remember.
Recalling her childhood, she reminisces about joining her parents in selling candles and flowers during fiesta celebrations, on typical Sundays, and various church occasions, including Misa de Gallo.
“Naanad mi nga kada kadlawon jud maninda dinhi kada Misa de Gallo. Bata pa ko (We have gotten used to selling food here during Misa de Gallo since I was a child),” Nanay Lenlen told SunStar Cebu during the start of the early dawn masses last Saturday, Dec. 16.
As a mother now, Nanay Lenlen has continued the tradition and turned it into a source of livelihood. Specializing in comfort food like corn dogs and hot drinks such as instant coffee and chocolate-flavored energy drinks, she sets up a makeshift stall beside the Raja Humabon monument on Burgos St.
Her 16-year-old daughter and six-year-old son, who are assigned to call customers, make it a family affair.
She said she was hoping for a great turnout of mass attendees this year, saying the church is yet to welcome the same volume of faithful attending Misa de Gallo as before the Covid-19 pandemic.
“Gamay pa kaayo og tawo karon, kompara sa una. Unta modaghan pa para mas mahalinan pa mi (There are still very few people now compared to before. I hope more will come, so we can earn more),” she said, revealing that last year she earned an average of P2,000 per day during Misa de Gallo by selling goods in her rent-free kiosk.
Nanay Lenlen said while selling during dawn masses helps her family, more than that, waking up early is also her penitence to God, as she also prays for her heart’s desire “to have a healthy family despite what is happening in the world.”
Convenient
Taho vendor Manolito Lahilahi, 38, originally from Toledo City in western Cebu, said selling during Misa de Gallo gives him great convenience since he can sell a full aluminum bucket without strolling the streets of the metro, which would usually take him half a day to sell out for P1,500 gross on other days of the year.
Manong Manolito said that in 20 years of selling taho or bean curd with sweet syrup, he has always anticipated the early dawn masses, considering it “a blessing” since he can earn more.
He said he makes P700 to P800 in profit when he sells a full aluminum bucket of taho.
“Mangaliya sad gyud ta nga mahuman og sayo para makapahuway pud ta og sayo. Ig human og paninda, pahuway gyud. Pero sa normal na adlaw, maglibod pa ko (We pray to God that we can finish early so that we can rest early. After I have finished my selling, I can rest. But on regular days, I must still roam around to make sales),” he said.
Integral part
For many Filipinos, Misa de Gallo represents not only a spiritual journey but also a time of joyful anticipation, strengthening bonds with family, friends and neighbors. However, there are also people who see it as a source of hope and survival.
Beyond the sacred walls of the church, these sidewalk vendors become an integral part of the Misa de Gallo experience, providing sustenance and warmth to the attendees.
While the faithful gather for prayers and reflection, these unsung heroes contribute to the seamless tapestry of tradition, ensuring that everyone, young and old, can partake in the essence of the season with both a nourished spirit and body.