It was one of those Mactan evenings when the air hangs heavy with salt, the sea breathing in and out just beyond the railing.
I was at Cowrie Cove Seafood Bar & Grill in Shangri-La Mactan, specifically for “Peruvian Passion,” a limited-time “culinary takeover” led by Chef Carlo Huerta Echegaray — born in Peru and now helming the sprawling culinary operations of Shangri-La at The Fort as Executive Sous Chef.
Chef Carlo’s career in the Philippines began in 2016, when he first arrived to do tasting trials for a new Peruvian restaurant at Shangri-La The Fort, Samba.
“They tried my arroz con mariscos — seafood rice — and the rest is history,” he told me, smiling at the memory. He ended up running the Peruvian outlet for several years before being promoted to Executive Chef for the entire property.
Peruvian cuisine, he explained, is “500 years of fusion.” The Spanish brought African and Moroccan influences. Chinese immigrants gave rise to chifa — Chinese-Peruvian food. Italians, Germans and later the Japanese all left their mark. “The Japanese influence — Nikkei — is more modern, but comida criolla, our creole home cooking, is the heart of Peru,” he said.
When he first came to the Philippines, Peruvian cooking was a curiosity. “Some people didn’t even know where Peru was. But culturally, we have a lot in common. Our flavors can be different, but our roots—thanks to Spain—are connected. It’s like having the same grandmother.”
Our dinner unfolded in five courses, each plate a chapter in Peru’s culinary story.
Tiradito de Atún en crema de rocoto. The opening dish was yellowfin tuna sliced with the precision of sashimi, dressed in a creamy rocoto chili sauce. The rocoto had its fire tamed, offering depth without overwhelming heat. Bright green edamame gave each bite a clean pop.
Ceviche de Ancón. The second course was a jolt to the senses — in the best way. Grouper, octopus, calamari, scallops and plump pearls of Yarra Valley salmon roe swam in ají limo leche de tigre, the Peruvian citrus marinade whose name translates to “tiger’s milk.” Sweet potato and crunchy cancha corn anchored the flavors.
Parihuela de Cangrejo y Camarón. This Peruvian bouillabaisse, thick with prawn and crab claw, had a complexity that lingered, layered with ají panca and capped with tiny bursts of flying fish caviar.
Corvina de la Patagonia en crema de camarones. The pan-seared toothfish rested in a coral-colored prawn butter sauce. A gigantic cassava croquette covered the dish — which we playfully shattered with a spoon. The feta cheese added richness, while the huacatay cream gave that herbal sharpness.
Tres Leches. Soft sponge soaked in three kinds of milk, topped with a cloud of meringue, and paired with cheesecake ice cream. Sweet without being cloying, it was the kind of ending that makes you slow down, if only to stretch the pleasure a little longer.
Between courses, Chef Carlo circled the tables, speaking with diners. The more he spoke, the more the similarities became clear. The shared Spanish heritage is the obvious thread, but there’s also a common love for layered flavors, for mixing influences without losing local identity.
“In the Philippines, labuyo is mostly for heat,” he said. “In Peru, we remove the seeds and veins of the chili so we keep the flavor but control the spiciness. It’s about adding depth, not just fire.”
This philosophy explains why the food that night felt both new and strangely familiar. Peruvian cuisine might have been born on the other side of the globe, but it speaks a language our palates already understand.
“Peruvian Passion” runs until Aug. 17, 2025. The special menu is available for dinner at Cowrie Cove. The resort is planning to host more of these “culinary takeovers” in the coming weeks. If this dinner was any indication, they’re worth marking on the calendar.