IN 2018, the National Museum of the Philippines declared 40 sites across the country as National Cultural Treasures and Important Cultural Properties. Camiguin’s cultural treasures include the Old Mambajao Fountain, the Old Mambajao Municipal building (unfortunately destroyed by a fire), the façade of the Sto. Rosario Church in Sagay and a number of heritage and ancestral homes belonging to the Cabeguin, Luspo, Juni, Neri/Nery, Dagondon, Chan, Borromeo, Cordero, Corrales, Francisco, Lim, Bacut and Chan families.
Camiguin’s main industry is copra farming and all it’s five municipalities cover a small area of 238 square kilometers. Both Ferdinand Magellan (in 1521) and Miguel Lopez de Legaspi (in 1565) set foot on this pearl-shaped island, whose original settlers were the Manobos from Surigao del Norte. They named Camiguin after the Kamagong – an ebony tree known to thrive around the Lake Mainit Area.
Three of our national cultural treasures can also be found here: 1) the Old Bonbon Church Ruins 2) the Sunken Cemetery and 3) the Spanish Era Moro watchtower in Guinsiliban.
As we stepped into the area of the Gui-ob Church ruins, I was immediately in awe of how the interplay of natural light and the green shrubbery that had grown over the walls and the columns seemed to transport me to another time. Such a perfect setting for a wedding I thought, as a local named Sherwin offered to take our photos and share with us that this place has become quite a popular choice for events and pictorials. That does not surprise me at all. The ruins and the area surrounding them were in total sync, instead of being a reminder of how powerful a volcanic eruption can be.
We were also able to visit the island of Mantigue (also known as Magsaysay Island), which was another short boat ride away from Camiguin. Four beautiful hectares have been declared a national park and marine sanctuary, with one being able to rent tables/chairs and find solace under the shade of their trees. I was able to enjoy it way better than the White Island because here, you can bring food and not be under the blazing sun all the time. However, their tourism guidelines only allow you a maximum of three hours stay and by 4 p.m., everyone leaves. They are truly compliant in playing their part in the protection of this area which my children truly enjoyed because even on their own, they could enjoy seeing corals and fish without going very deep.
By our second and third days, we found the time to finally visit some of the ancestral homes cited as important cultural properties. Although not officially included in the list, the Unchuan ancestral home was our first stop. Then we proceeded to the Corrales house and could not help but ogle at the 125 year old Pili tree in the grounds nearby. The stories it could tell about how life was way back then! After a quick stop at the Nery House, we proceeded to go house to house – for pasalubong shopping. In Camiguin, when you want your fill of Bollozos Turrones de Mani or boxes of sikwate, you have to knock on doors of house where families continuing traditions still sell them the oldfashioned way.
With the help of their Tourism Office, we were able to see and explore the most well-preserved of the heritage houses and was delighted to meet Nerio Chan, whose great grandfather Chan Bon Liong built this house. It stands on its own corner of a street that was supposedly earmarked for widening but was left incomplete because this heritage house had to remain intact where it stood.
This two-story house is very well ventilated and filled with treasures made of metal, porcelain, wood, shells and whatever else; it has a completely lived-in feel all the more made cozy with us drinking home-made sikwate in antique chairs and tables while exchanging stories with Nerio about his ancestors and how much life has changed since then.
Our visit to Camiguin was short yet sweet; I did not expect that there was so much more I wanted to see beyond its natural attractions; I want to visit more of those heritage houses, more churches and hike more trails. I arrived just wanting to see lanzones bunches still in trees and left yearning to visit more remnants of the past. Such is the charm of this place, it draws you in and when you leave, you know you will return.