Making that return trip to the Land of the Rising Sun a couple of weeks ago, we just could not strike out Kyoto on our one-week itinerary. In 2018 during our first trip, it was just a quick afternoon tour, as we merely dropped off this quiet city with rich history while we made our way to the busier capital city, Tokyo, from Osaka. I was amazed by the mix of old and modern with its historic temples, which enticed the architect in me.
Temple architecture in Japan is often associated with its two important religions — Shintoism and Buddhism. So, what better way to experience both than by including at least a Shinto and a Buddhist temple in our must-visits in our whole day stroll.
Piercing through the serene skyline of Japan’s old capital city, the pagoda of To-ji temple is clearly visible while approaching the Kyoto Station via the bullet train. The temple has been the headquarters of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism, often referred to as Esoteric or Tantric Buddhism. To-ji, which means “East Temple,” is one of two huge “guardian temples” constructed on two sides of the main entrance to the Imperial City of Heiankyo (the original name of the city of Kyoto). These were hallmark buildings that marked the transfer of Japan’s capital to Kyoto from Nara back in 794 AD.
After a 15-minute walk from the mall across the train station, we reached the temple’s Keigamon Gate. Japanese temples are usually “precincts” composed of different buildings and structures associated with Buddhist worship. However, the main buildings are usually found along a central axis within the precinct, often highlighted by a towering pagoda, which houses the relics of Buddha. One of the main buildings in a Buddhist temple like To-ji is the kodo, which is the lecture hall. To-ji’s kodo stands in the heart of the area and is considered as an important cultural property from the 16th century. The original building was built in 835 and has experienced numerous damages from natural disasters. It was rebuilt in 1491 and has preserved its architecture until today.
A short walk from the kodo is the kondo, which is the main image hall. In Buddhist temple architecture, the kondos contain the main image of Buddha. In To-ji, its kondo is the largest in the entire precinct, which was reconstructed in 1603 after the original eighth-century structure burned down in 1486.