On the first day of November, the gates of Cebu’s cemeteries open to an old rhythm. Families arrive carrying flowers, candles, folding chairs and coolers filled with food. Children chase each other between tombstones, vendors call out prices for candles and bottled water, and somewhere in the air, the faint smell of melted wax and grilled pork mingles with the sound of laughter and prayer.
It might look like a strange mix of festivity and mourning. But for most Filipinos, this is what remembering feels like — equal parts solemn and joyful, a family ritual that honors not just the dead but the act of coming together.
Technically, it’s All Souls’ Day on Nov. 2 when Catholics pray for departed loved ones. But since Nov. 1, All Saints’ Day, is the holiday, most families choose this day to visit. It started as a matter of convenience: a day off to clean graves, light candles and travel home. Over the years, practicality turned into tradition. “Kalag-kalag,” as Cebuanos call it, became less about a single date on the calendar and more about a season of remembrance.
And like every Filipino tradition, it grew around family. Relatives who work in other cities or abroad come home, bringing stories and pasalubong. Cemetery grounds transform into open-air reunions where families set up tents, unpack packed lunches, and swap stories about the ones they miss.
It’s also a busy time for small businesses. Flower and candle vendors line the roads near cemeteries, often earning more during Kalag-kalag than any other week of the year.
Authorities, too, move in rhythm with the season. The Cebu City Government and the police prepare traffic rerouting schemes, deploy medical teams and maintain order in what can feel like a city-wide pilgrimage.
Of course, not everyone agrees on how the day should be spent. Some prefer quiet visits and whispered prayers. Others bring music, food, even card games — an echo of how their loved ones lived. Critics might call it disrespectful; others see it as proof that grief doesn’t have to be silent.
At its heart, Kalag-kalag isn’t about which day is right but about showing up. Whether it’s Nov. 1 or 2, what matters is the intention. It’s the Filipino way of saying: we remember, and we’re still here.