Beyond the steps: My Great Wall journey

READY FOR THE CLIMB. Striking a pose before the climb at the Great Wall of China during the July 2025 summer heat, as part of the Journalist Leaders and Gen Z Young Leaders Seminar for Belt and Road Countries.
READY FOR THE CLIMB. Striking a pose before the climb at the Great Wall of China during the July 2025 summer heat, as part of the Journalist Leaders and Gen Z Young Leaders Seminar for Belt and Road Countries. SWEETER KALIO/MICRONESIA
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We were still inside the shuttle bus when our tour guide, Mr. Burton, turned to us and said, “You haven’t really been to China if you haven’t been to the Great Wall.” He has been there more than 800 times, but the way he spoke carried the same awe as if it were his first.

Mr. Burton, a veteran Chinese tour guide, shared his wealth of knowledge and personal experiences about climbing the Great Wall of China. His tips and stories built up our excitement as we prepared for our own climb to the iconic wonder.
Mr. Burton, a veteran Chinese tour guide, shared his wealth of knowledge and personal experiences about climbing the Great Wall of China. His tips and stories built up our excitement as we prepared for our own climb to the iconic wonder. MLSAbalayan

“I regard the Great Wall as my gym, the Summer Palace as my garden, and the Forbidden City as my office,” he joked.

On the bus heading to our Great Wall of China trip, I sat in the same row with my Bulgarian besties—Christina and her daughter, Jacqueline.
On the bus heading to our Great Wall of China trip, I sat in the same row with my Bulgarian besties—Christina and her daughter, Jacqueline.MLSAbalayan

The moment we finally stepped out into the blazing July sun, his words began to sink in. The Wall loomed before us, ancient and unyielding. Despite the heat, 36°C and unforgiving, I felt a thrill. This wasn’t just another tourist attraction. This was history unfolding beneath my feet. With every step, I imagined the soldiers, builders, and emperors who once stood where I stood.

A breathtaking view from the top of the Great Wall of China, captured by Jacqueline Zlatanova of Bulgaria during our July 2025 climb.
A breathtaking view from the top of the Great Wall of China, captured by Jacqueline Zlatanova of Bulgaria during our July 2025 climb. Jacqueline Zlatanova/ Bulgaria

Gratitude filled my heart. I knew this wasn’t just a tourist stop. This was God’s grace, allowing me to be part of something timeless and to share it with nearly 30 other delegates from the Journalist Leaders and Gen Z Young Leaders Seminar from Belt and Road countries.

Delegates of the Journalist Leaders and Gen Z Young Leaders Seminar for Belt and Road Countries pose for a photo at the entrance to the Great Wall of China tourist passage, alongside staff from the National Radio and Television Administration (NRTA).
Delegates of the Journalist Leaders and Gen Z Young Leaders Seminar for Belt and Road Countries pose for a photo at the entrance to the Great Wall of China tourist passage, alongside staff from the National Radio and Television Administration (NRTA). NRTA PHOTO

Battling the heat

The Wall may have felt timeless, but the heat reminded me I was very much in the present. Beijing scorched us with 36°C heat that day. I came armed with sunblock, a cap, sunglasses, a mini fan, and yes, an umbrella—the only one in the group! Still, the sun had the last laugh. By the time I made it back down, I was sporting a sunburn.

Standing at Juyongguan, one of the most famous Great Wall passes just 50 km from Beijing. Once a mighty stronghold guarding the northern gateway to the capital, today it’s a breathtaking reminder of history and resilience, and yes, that’s me soaking it all in!
Standing at Juyongguan, one of the most famous Great Wall passes just 50 km from Beijing. Once a mighty stronghold guarding the northern gateway to the capital, today it’s a breathtaking reminder of history and resilience, and yes, that’s me soaking it all in!VICTORIA/NIGERIA

“The Great Wall Tour is losing weight for free,” Mr. Burton teased as we prepared to climb. He wasn’t exaggerating. The steps grew steeper with every station, and the sun beat down mercilessly. Even with all my gear, the heat sapped my energy. I thought of pushing higher, but with asthma in the back of my mind, I had to be wise and stop midway.

The Great Wall caters to at least 40,000 tourists a day during summer.
The Great Wall caters to at least 40,000 tourists a day during summer. MLSAbalayan

Mr. Burton warned us before we began:

“To climb the Great Wall is one adventure activity. Every year, some tourists suffer from heart attacks or dizziness. We even hear of people from other groups who fall or collapse. That’s why we never push you to go too far. As long as you come back safe and on time, you are the hero in my mind.”

A stunning view looking up toward the top.
A stunning view looking up toward the top.MLSAbalayan

Finding fellowship along the Wall

Stopping midway didn’t mean missing out. It turned into an unexpected blessing. I spent time with Christina from Bulgaria, Esther from Nigeria, and Sweeter of Micronesia. Christina, with her fair skin glowing under the sun, became a magnet for Chinese students eager to take selfies with her. The laughter and camaraderie made the climb lighter.

Taking a rest with these two Chinese grade schoolers.
Taking a rest with these two Chinese grade schoolers. MLSAbalayan

On our descent, a shy Chinese boy approached me, hesitant to ask for a selfie. When I nodded and smiled at his phone, his face lit up. That small gesture turned into one of my favorite memories from the climb. Later, we joined a group of Chinese students on a field trip, resting together under the shade while waiting for the others.

Meanwhile, some of my fellow delegates went all the way up. Bejay and Frauleen from Micronesia, Jacqueline from Bulgaria, Miguel from Honduras, along with participants from Iraq, South Sudan, and Nigeria, conquered the highest stations. They returned beaming with pride and fulfillment. I couldn’t have been prouder of them. For me, the climb wasn’t about reaching the top, but about embracing the journey and the people alongside it.

The writer with delegates from Nigeria, Iraq, Romania, South Sudan, and Micronesia.
The writer with delegates from Nigeria, Iraq, Romania, South Sudan, and Micronesia.SA'ADATU/NIGERIA
The writer with delegates from Nigeria.
The writer with delegates from Nigeria.CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS
DAVID AND GOLIATH? I had fun snapping this photo with 25-year-old Akuie from South Sudan, a towering delegate who became my adoptive son during the seminar.
DAVID AND GOLIATH? I had fun snapping this photo with 25-year-old Akuie from South Sudan, a towering delegate who became my adoptive son during the seminar. VANESSA/NIGERIA

Awe at the summit views

Even from my midway stop, the Wall stretched endlessly across mountains and valleys, disappearing into the horizon like a dragon weaving through the land. The clear skies framed the vast stone path, and for a moment, I felt small, humbled, and deeply awed. I whispered a prayer of thanks: Lord, thank You for this unforgettable gift.

Mr. Burton reminded us that no one could truly “conquer” the Wall.

“The Ming Dynasty Great Wall alone is 1,851 kilometers. Scholars who walked the entire section took 531 days. Imagine, nearly two years. That’s why I say the Wall is just a taste for you today. No matter how far you climb, there is always more.”

Hearing that put my short climb into perspective. It wasn’t about conquering. It was about connection—with history, with friends, and with myself.

A selfie with our seminar staff after our safe and successful climb, Alex Fa, Di Wu, and Jade Liu.
A selfie with our seminar staff after our safe and successful climb, Alex Fa, Di Wu, and Jade Liu. JADE LIU

Practical tips for summer climbs

Mr. Burton gave us important safety tips before letting us loose on the climb, and they’re worth sharing for anyone planning a summer visit:

  • Pace yourself. If you climb for one hour up, plan another hour for the descent. Don’t go too far if you can’t handle the return.

  • Bring water. Hydrate often. Dehydration is one of the biggest risks under the summer sun.

  • Wear protection. Sunblock, hats, umbrellas, and shades are a must. If you forget, there are stalls at the base selling hats, shirts, and even custom “Great Wall finisher’s medals.”

  • Travel with a buddy. “If you want to go far, go with at least one or two friends,” Mr. Burton said. “Never climb alone.”

  • Know your limits. Some gentlemen, he joked, try to prove how strong they are. But pride won’t protect you from dizziness or exhaustion. Listen to your body.

Some souvenir stalls at the Great Wall  of China.
Some souvenir stalls at the Great Wall of China. MLSAbalayan
Tourists check out some souvenir items at the Juyongguan pass grounds of the Great Wall of China.
Tourists check out some souvenir items at the Juyongguan pass grounds of the Great Wall of China. MLSAbalayan
I CLIMBED THE GREAT WALL. After the climb, you can grab a souvenir medal from stalls like this, and even have it personalized with your name.
I CLIMBED THE GREAT WALL. After the climb, you can grab a souvenir medal from stalls like this, and even have it personalized with your name.
Yes, there is a McDonald's near the entrance of the Juyongguan pass of the Great Wall.
Yes, there is a McDonald's near the entrance of the Juyongguan pass of the Great Wall.CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

More than a wall

The Great Wall is both a wonder and a warning. It took more than 1,800 years to build across nine dynasties, stretching 21,196 kilometers. It’s a Unesco World Heritage Site, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and a national symbol of China’s resilience. 

But it is also, as Mr. Burton soberly told us, “the world’s longest tomb.” More than a million workers died building it, their bones said to be buried within the stones themselves.

Today, though, its purpose has changed. No longer does it defend against enemies from the north. Instead, it welcomes friends from around the world — like us, sweating, laughing, and marveling under Beijing’s blazing sun.

Great Wall of China view from the top
Great Wall of China view from the top JACQUELINE ZLATANOVA/BULGARIA

That day, the Great Wall wasn’t just stone and history; it felt alive. It became a bridge that drew strangers from different corners of the world and made us a family, if only for a moment. I realized the best journeys aren’t always about reaching the top, but about the people you walk with; the laughter, the sweat, the struggles, and the wonder you share along the way. MLSA

At the Juyongguan Pass of the Great Wall, the writer pauses to take in the view. She didn’t climb to the very top, but the sweeping scenery from this spot was already a breathtaking reward.
At the Juyongguan Pass of the Great Wall, the writer pauses to take in the view. She didn’t climb to the very top, but the sweeping scenery from this spot was already a breathtaking reward.CONTRIBUTED PHOTO
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