I FOUND myself at Marawi City last week upon invitation from a friend. It was not my first trip to Marawi but in my longest stay so far and has given me much time to see Lake Lanao.
Lake Lanao is one of the 17 ancient lakes of the world and can be found in Lanao del Sur. It is home to the Maranaos or the "people of the lake" as "Ranao" means lake. In effect, "Lake Lanao" actually means "lake lake."
Lake Lanao has an area of around 36,000 hectares making it the largest freshwater lake in the Philippines. It is so huge that it has five watersheds and about thirty rivers feeding its water. Though the rest of the country may not have the same cultural affinity to Lake Lanao as the Maranaos, it is an important resource to the country as it is the major source of hydroelectric power of the country--- around 60 percent of the total electricity of Mindanao.
But whatever value it has to the people of Mindanao, the same does not seem to have been extended to the lake. Despite having watersheds that rely on forests for sustenance, there is rampant timber poaching and farm conversions that have harshly reduced water flowing to and from the lake. Then there’s trash.
At any of the short stops that we took, there was always trash lining the shore, floating in the water, or visibly settling in the lake’s waters.
While waiting for sunrise at the view deck of Lake View Resort, I looked at the water immediately below me and identified a rice cooker, men’s shoes, kid’s flip flops, trousers, etc. sharing space in the water with fish traps. Then there were diapers, sanitary napkins, broken plates, cans, water bottles that provided stark contrast to the sea grass.
I would not have been surprised if I dove into its depths and found a whole kitchen sink. The waters of Lake Lanao seem to be in such distressed state that only two of its 18 endemic species are existing according to a study by the Mindanao State University and according to the National Power Corporation, e.coli is thriving in its waters.
E.coli or Escherichia coli, a germ or bacterium that lives in the digestive tracts of humans and animals is passed on by coming into contact with feces, or stool, of humans or animals.
So upon seeing a couple take their morning bath in the lake--complete with shampoo and facial wash, I was beyond being just dumbfounded. Only high heat and chlorine can kill e.coli, not soap. Not even Safeguard with its 99 percent germ-killing power, I suppose.
But Lake Lanao is a view to behold. At some of the stops we took, the view of mosques standing beside the lake was spectacular.
At one point, I was just was not sure who was guarding who when I stared at one green mosque that seemed to be floating in the lake’s still waters.
At sunrise, the mosque glistened with the lake’s gentle warmth and at sunset, it was the lake that seemed to seek comfort at the prayers blaring from the mosque’s green turrets.
I should have just kept on staring at the green mosque and setting sun so as not to get distracted by what floated beneath my feet and assailed my nostrils.